Ditch Plains (Excellent Mac from a Fish Shack)

Everything is pleasant at Ditch Plains, a laid-back West Village fish shack. The fuss-free menu features creature comforts like lobster rolls, fish and chips and chilli. The “fish shack” theme plays out in complimentary oyster crackers and a cup of taffy but the steely space feels far from a shack. You might not expect amazing mac and cheese at a seafood restaurant, but their version is one of the best I’ve had. It’s a perfect blend that tastes like cheddar and Gruyère with dense, creamy flavor and a browned crust. My friend and I shared it as an appetizer and were in cheesy heaven.

Go for the grilled fish of the day and you’ll get a huge, skin-on portion served simply with a side salad and lemon. On my visit it was meaty trout, so fresh that even my pescaphobe friend loved it. I skipped the wacky “Ditch Dog”, a  hot dog served with mac n’ cheese on top, though I’ve heard great things.

The drink list isn’t particularly memorable, but you’ll find a few friendly beers beyond the standard. I didn’t have wine on my visit, but they tout a “low markup” philosophy with good prices and the ability to buy any bottle of wine as a half. It’s a tradition that healms from the owners’ more grownup restaurant, Landmarc.

Ditch Plains is the sort of place you’ll be happy to know about on an agenda-free stroll downtown. You can stumble in and find exactly what you’re looking for.

Location: 29 Bedford Street @Downing
Food: Very Good
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entrée Price: $12/$24
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Esca (Heaven for a Fish Freak)

Warning: severe restaurant lovefest ahead.

David Pasternack and Mario Batali’s seafood shrine, Esca, is everything a restaurant should be from its stately dining room to its top-notch service and supreme food. This fish freak was in absolute heaven.

David Pasternack was doing crudo at Esca before crudo became cool. Some even credit him as the pioneer of this Italian raw fish trend in America. With a dash of coarse salt and a slather of olive oil, he brings sea creatures to new heights. But Pasternack is no one-trick-pony. His cooked preparations burst with flavor, honoring the fish and delighting diners. Even on a strange corner of 9th Avenue, Esca was packed at 9:45 on a Thursday evening.

As busy as Esca was, no less than three people smiled as we walked in, for no reason other than to welcome new customers. I’m fairly certain it was Pasternack himself, who I saw gazing across the room like a hawk, for any transgressions. First impressions such as this are key indicators of what lies ahead.

We shared three crudo: sea trout with crushed almonds, orata with meyer lemon and pink snapper with black salt. Each was more fresh and unique than the next. My favorite was the snapper while E loved the nuttiness of the trout. Since it was late, they were out of a lot of options. I planned on ordering the whole fish baked in salt but all they had left was the three-person portion of black sea bass. After some deliberation, we decided to go for it.

It arrived, gorgeously crusted in a thick shell of sea salt. They cracked the shell tableside and the sommelier brought the platter for us to gaze at before they filleted the fish. The whole dining room seemed to glance enviously at the presentation. I had a huge grin on my face , so much so, that the tipsy guy next to us was repeating “AWW, LOOK HOW HAPPY SHE IS!” After carefully deboning the bass and separating it into two generous portions, they drizzled a fragrant olive oil on top and served it. Don’t let the concept deceive you, the salt was subtly infused into the meat of the fish, rather than making it salty. We also shared a basic side salad and some sautéed cremini mushrooms along with the bass. We had NO problem finishing the portion for three, though it was plentiful ;) The fish was so fresh, I couldn’t bear to leave it over.

I’ve said enough about my recent trip to Gilt and I don’t want to dwell on the negative. But the treatment we received at Gilt vs. Esca was simply night and day. Every question we had, no matter how nit picky, no matter how detailed, was answered with respect by everyone at Esca from the sommelier, to the waiter and the bread boy. Our waiter went above and beyond, informing E of anything he should avoid be it a shellfish broth or bread possibly made with lard. The fact that he knew all of these details was a wonder in itself. Before visiting, I had read some reports of shaky service in recent years. I found it to be the opposite!

My respect for Batali increases with each restaurant of his that I visit. Esca is another example of why I love him. Unfortunately, he doesn’t love me. But that’s a story for another day.

The fact that Gilt has 2 Michelin stars and Esca now has 0 is an utter tragedy. Who are these loony people? Esca was a phenomenal dining experience that I’d love to repeat for my next special occasion.

Have you been to Esca? I would love to hear your thoughts.

Location: 402 W 43rd and 9th Ave
Food: Excellent
Service: Excellent
Average App/Entrée Price: $17/$32
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Quick Bites: Oceana (Revamped)

The Basics: After staying afloat on East 54th street for nearly two decades, Oceana has swum South to a bigger space with the same fresh seafood and star service plus a modernized menu. Some of the new territory appears unfamiliar though. With ceviche, carpaccio and tartare on nearly every menu in Manhattan, there is no need to pay $19 for an appetizer trio of tuna, hamachi and wild salmon, unless it’s mind-blowing. Unfortunately their one-dimensional version wasn’t. Fresh? Yes. Inspiring? No. But prepared entrees remind you why an historic restaurant like Oceana can still survive, and earn a Michelin star for 2009. Meaty Branzino for two stuffed and rolled with spinach, juicy mushrooms and plump olives was simply bursting with flavors and the presentation of the coiled fish was stunning (though it looks a little scary in my phone-camera photo).

Food: Very Good
Drinks: An expansive, fairly priced wine list and a hefty beer selection too. Despite the Livanos family’s background there was nary a Greek wine on the list. They plan to add some soon.
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entree Price: $17/$36
Value: Good
Location: 1221 6th Ave and 49th
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Harbour (Sustainable Seafood but a Rocky Ride)

Shiny and new Harbour owned by an ex-chairman of the NY Merc exchange serves sustainable seafood by Michelin star chef Joe Isidori. It feels like a cruise ship with its blonde-wood walls and porthole windows, with a purple and yellow glass chandelier as the centerpiece (by Dale Chihuly says my Mom). It’s tasteful though, and kind of fun, casting a serene feel to the space. Harbour floats oddly on an empty stretch of Hudson, with few neighbors aside from the divey (but fun!) Antarctica bar across the street. It’s a bold location for such an upscale, expansive spot. Nobody is having trouble finding it though, as most of the tables were filled when I visited with my Mom.

Since I know little about sustainable seafood other than knowing Bluefin tuna is a no-no, I looked into the Blue Ocean Institute. They recommend various fish based on their abundance i.e. Atlantic Halibut is close to extinction but Pacific Halibut are abundant. Their seafood guide is a great resource. Harbour is the first sustainable seafood restaurant I’ve been to. It’s a nice idea that they execute in a gentle way, without too much propaganda aside from the card above.

Despite the sense of serenity at Harbour, there is an element of thoughtfulness that’s missing in some of the food and the service. The ginger/yogurt dip is too sweet, and an odd pairing for olive bread. Our waitress and the bus boys seemed tense and awkward. There were too many interruptions during the meal including things cleared senselessly. My Mom’s empty wine glass was cleared before mine, by a whole three minutes. I’m not sure why they thought that was precious real estate. Her bread plate was taken and not replaced. The thing is though, everybody was so nice. It’s just that they were trying too hard.

Our garden salads with smoked blue cheese arrived just minutes after we ordered them, before we’d even chosen a bottle of wine. The greens were nice, but the supposed smoked blue cheese was missing-in-action. I don’t mean to be needy, but if a salad costs $10, I want all the promised toppings. We mentioned it to the waitress and she quickly fixed the problem, bringing us a heaping bowl of the blue cheese which was so worth it. It had all the salty, rich, creamy goodness of blue cheese with smokiness to boot, almost like blue cheese and bacon (hold the bacon).

My arctic char with grapefruit and miso was seared, rare and tender on the inside with delicate sweetness. But my Mom’s striped bass came covered in a mountainous foam soup. The creamy, layered flavors were there, though I should have closed my eyes. We enjoyed a gooey cauliflower gratin studded with sweet golden raisins and were confused by a cold, mushy fennel side with olives. A tart passionfruit sorbet amuse was one of the best things we had. I think the wine was my favorite aspect of the meal though, a Bergstrom 2007 Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, which was shockingly well-priced at $99 ($75 retail).

There is some work to be done at Harbour but the concept is great. They just need a bit more finesse and focus.

Harbour: 290 Hudson Street
Cuisine: Seafood
Average App/Entree Price: $10/$25
Food: Good
Service: Good
Value: Very Good
Word to the Wise: Someone has been shilling allover, saying Harbour has the “best drinks in town” but my  “East Hampton” with grey goose, Thai basil, and grapefruit was watery and bland. Skip the cocktails and stick to the creative and well-priced wine list. A prixe-fixe $45 dinner is a great deal. They also have a separate list of 20 wines under $20.
You Gonna Finish That? Meh, you can taste the side.

Mermaid Inn UWS

Mermaid Inn has been on my Wish List for as long as I can remember, so I was excited for some fresh seafood at their 2nd, Upper West side location on Friday evening. Mermaid Inn has a nice air of homey sophistication that I really liked. I felt upon walking in and being greeted by the friendly hosts, that we were going to be taken care of.

I ordered a Gruner Veltliner from their eclectic, well-priced wine list with many options in the high $20s and low $30s, which I was pleased to see. My friend ordered the clam chowder and though I didn’t try it, I could see that it was filled with big meaty pieces of clam, not stuffed with potatoes and filler as many clam chowders are. She said she enjoyed it a lot. I was craving some stinky cheese so I stayed simple with a crispy iceberg wedge which was loaded with chunks of pungent, creamy blue cheese with a touch of vinaigrette. The appetizers arrived quickly–maybe slightly early.

I ordered the salmon served with pencil-thin asparagus and a trio of milled eggplant, zucchini and a fiery harissa, served in purees on the plate. The fish was fresh and tender, with a crisp seasoned skin that I gobbled up with everything else. My friend had the braised skate wing with tomatoes that was lightly breaded. We were both perplexed by the idea of braising skate, especialy with bread crumbs, but she said the skate was delicious.

Mermaid Inn is a haven for seafood lovers, but carnivores will find a grilled steak with whipped potato and shallots as an option.

You can end on a sweet note at Mermaid Inn for free with a complimentary cup of chocolate mousse and a silly fish fortune teller. Despite the divine food and great service, the prices at Mermaid Inn are a real steal. It’s a perfect place to hide until the recession clears.

Mermaid Inn: 568 Amsterdam (betw 87th and 88th)
Cuisine: Seafood
Average App/Entree Price: $10/$19
Food: Very Good
Service: Very Good
Value: Excellent
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Word to the Wise: Mermaid Inn has another location in the East Village at 96 2nd Ave

Turquoise (Glatt Kosher Seafood)

Turquoise Seafood Restaurant, once praised for its sesame shrimp and tilapia stuffed with crabmeat, has now been given a concept makeover, becoming Glatt Kosher, under the supervision of the Orthodox Union as of November 2008. I had never been to Turquoise prior to the change, but it seems to be a wise one as the restaurant was packed on Valentine’s Day evening, even at the late hour of 10PM.

The scene is modern and airy with colorful lighting and a pale wood floor. The menu is mediterranean and seafood focused though steak dishes are offered as well, like Chianti braised short ribs and roasted organic chicken breast with root vegetable puree. Warm bread with pesto olive oil starts the meal. Service is amiable though quite rushed, perhaps due to the holiday. E and I were hustled into ordering quickly after being asked if we were ready on multiple occasions (despite our open menus).

I started with an excellent jalapeno-dotted tuna tartare with avocado, mayonnaise and wonton chips. They were out of the pot of artichokes, so E had crispy, spicy beef spring rolls with a chile reduction. After the appetizer we waited, and waited… and waited some more, seeing entrees that suspiciously seemed to be ours passed to a table that had arrived after us. I wondered about some confusion in the kitchen. Finally, entrees were brought to us, though I was mistakenly given mahi mahi when I had ordered arctic char. They apologized and brought my char while E had pepper-seared ahi tuna with spinach and pickled ginger. My char was fine though uninspired and served with undercooked, rubbery eggplant and a little glob of rosemary apple preserves and some underseasoned haricot vert that looked like regular string beans to me. E’s “pepper-seared” tuna lacked pepper and we both thought the pickled ginger, a pile similar to a sushi accompaniment was odd. We washed it all down with a Russian River Pinot that was smooth and fruity, though lacked depth.

Generally, I’m glad to see an innovative seafood restaurant choose to become kosher and I think there is potential for Turquoise to be great. They need to reevaluate some of their preparation and improve service.

Turquoise: 240 East 81st (betw 2nd and 3rd ave)
Cuisine: Seafood, Kosher
Food: Good
Service: Poor
Value: Poor
You Gonna Finish That? Meh, you can taste the side.
Average Appetizer/Entree Price: $12/$33

Le Bernardin

What was surprising to me about Le Bernardin was not the sublime food or the impeccable service-I expected that-it was the real warmth of the restaurant, the lack of stuffiness. Le Bernardin is an iconic place for French cuisine in Manhattan. It has been the king of French seafood in New York since it opened here in 1986 and has only improved in stature since Eric Ripert took the throne as executive chef in 1994. It has been one of few restaurants in New York to win 3 Michelin stars for years now.

Yet the wood-paneled room with blue carpeting and oversized plants feels comfortable. And the people at Le Bernardin don’t exude any kind of arrogance. The menu offers a choice of a 4-course prixe fix or more extensive tasting menus. The selections are so exciting for a seafood lover, I really had a tough time choosing. Whether oddities like geoduck or uni are your cup of tea or “barely touched” escolar, the kitchen at Le Bernardin allows the fresh flavors of each dish’s centerpiece to express themselves, without much distraction.

Star appetizers are the layers of thinly pounded tuna with a touch of foie gras and a layer of crispy baguette, studded with chives or a smokey, warm octopus salad with lemon confit. A bountiful tray of warm breads are generously served between courses. Le Bernardin’s take on a “surf and turf” was also exceptional served with buttery, crisp kobe beef, round eggplant “fries”, and seared white tuna. Even the amuse-bouche, which for me is rarely of note, was a tiny bowl of rich, seafood soup with chunks of lobster. One miss though, was the bland calamari stuffed with sweet prawns and wood ear mushroom, in a calamari consomme. I sampled enough of my Dad’s crab-stuffed zucchini flowers though, to make up for it.

I’m not typically dazzled by desserts but they did some neat things here mixing sweet and savory like a “chocolate sweet potato” and a dish with bacon ice cream. My heart is always with cheese and their gooey assortment of types I don’t remember (except roquefort) was a killer finish.

Service was timely without too much pomp and circumstance. I had expected a well-orchestrated display of synchronized steel-lid-lifting, but as mentioned before, Le Bernardin was more relaxed than I’d expected. Le Bernardin was definitely one of my top dining experiences, and I highly recommend it for your next special occasion.

Le Bernardin: 155 W 51st Street near 7th ave
Cuisine: French, Seafood
Average Entree Price: 4-course prixe fix is $109
Food: Very Good
Service: Very Good
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Word to the Wise: Jackets Required. Also, Le Bernardin makes a point of serving exclusively eco-friendly fish.

BLT Fish

BLT Fish-one of five restaurants in the BLT group- lives up to its namesake serving swimmingly fresh seafood in a pleasant, open air space. My meal there last week was sublime from start to finish. I expected to have nicely prepared fish but I did not expect such outstanding service. The waiter and sommelier were knowledgeable and all of the staff very helpful whenever anything was needed. I found myself constantly asking: isn’t the service here awesome? Got to be a good sign.

There’s not much at BLT Fish for those who stick with turf so I recommend leaving those folks at home ;) That aside, the menu offers a wide array of inspired appetizers such as grilled octopus salad with aged balsamic, lobster and jumbo lump crab cake, or rock shrimp risotto. There are also raw bar options though I got the feeling it’s not a BLT Fish focus. The standard oyster, clam, and king crab claw options were there but specific selections based on region were lacking. As we read the menu we ordered a red Burgundy: 2004 Chambolle-Misgny Les Veroilles from the Cote d’Or with help from the sommelier. Red Burgundy was a great idea as it could stand up to both steaky fish such as tuna and flaky fish such as cod. It served us well though it was a bit young.

Mom and I opted for the spicy tuna tartare with avocado, preserved lemon and American caviar. We found the tartare to be tasty with a nice spice though the caviar was overpowering and out of place. The balance was off and we thought it better suited with more avocado and less caviar. (My one complaint of the evening)

For entrees, diners order their fish by type and preparation then choose a sauce and sides. I opted for the whole roasted daurade with a Provencal crust w/pesto sauce while Mom had the Alaskan Black Cod with Acacia honey reduction. For sides we had hen of the woods mushrooms and sauteed garlic spinach. The fish was incredibly tasty with just a sprinkle of salt but the rich pesto sauce really took it to another level. We gobbled up our food and barely shared with each other. A very pleasant and successful meal overall.
BLT Fish: 21 W 17th Street
Cuisine: Seafood
Average App/Entree Price: $16/$32
Food: Very Good
Service: Good
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Stella Maris

Faced with the daunting challenge of finding a good place to eat in the venerable culinary wasteland of the financial district, I consulted my good friends at Chowhound. I had hoped to prove myself wrong and find a particular hidden gem. I was given a few options and opted to try out Stella Maris, a newcomer to the Southstreet Seaport area. The bar was packed with investment bankers trying to impress new bosses, and girls swooning over potential mates. The dining area however, was empty.

The focus is on fresh seafood at Stella Maris and the menu offers a myriad raw bar items as well as some appealing fish focused appetizers and entrees. Some of the standout appetizers were: cockles and mussels Dublin style (whatever that is), a grilled shrimp with white beans and roasted red peppers salad, a grilled octopus salad with potato vinaigrette and watercress. In terms of entrees they offered a whole Daurude served with asparagus and egg noodles as well as a striped bass with artichokes. For the non-seafood lovers, Stella Maris also has plenty to offer like potato gnocchi with morel mushroom ragout and braised beef shortribs with ramps, mashed potatoes and leeks. I was quite impressed at first glance.

Our waiter was pretty nervous and awkward- we gave him the benefit of the doubt until we realized he was pretty inept. He was rarely available when we needed things and disappeared halfway through the meal. Another waiter stood in for him though I did not appreciate him speaking down to me about the wines. I wanted to order a white wine by the glass and asked what they had only to be told he had a simple, lighter bodied as well as more complex wine rather than hearing the actual wines themselves. I appreciate the explanation but if I ask what wines they have, I’d like to know the names rather than a dumbed down description.

The food was pretty good, though not remarkable. My friend had the warm asparagus salad with a soft poached egg, shaved parmesan and black truffle vinaigrette. I had the grilled octopus salad (surprised?). We both enjoyed our appetizers- my octopus came chopped in the watercress with small, hearty potato rounds. The asparagus was tasty though the truffle vinaigrette was missing in the picture. We both had the striped bass with artichokes, saffron and a white wine sauce. I found the bass to be slightly tough and the artichokes had an odd, potato-like texture. For what we got, the prices were unwarranted with appetizers in the $11-$16 range and entrees in the $30 range.
Despite the errors, it was still a beautiful night and it was really nice to be by the water. Maybe after a bit of time, Stella Maris will get their act together but I won’t be back to check it out.

Stella Maris: 213 Front Street betw Beekman St and Peck Slip
Cuisine: Seafood
Food: Good
Service: Good
Value: Poor
You Gonna Finish That? Meh, you can taste the side