Freemans

Freemans: that fashionable, taxidermied nook at the end of an alley on the Lower East side was a hit and a miss for me on Friday evening.

I loved the atmosphere which felt like an escape to a hidden hunting lodge where lots of friendly, attractive people were hiding. There are multiple rooms, all adorned with heads of wildlife like deer, geese, and wild boar. The rickety, wooden tables and chairs are at home in this understated living room.

The cozy food at Freemans was a fair match to the environment. The hot artichoke dip came highly recommended and lived up to its promises with fresh chunks of artichoke and gooey cheese that we spread on crisp toasts. It was easily the best artichoke dip I’ve had, ever. A three-cheese macaroni was heavenly, with a nice crisp bread crumb on top. A traditional spinach salad with boiled egg, bacon, pine nuts and mustard vinaigrette was a refreshing, slight break from the richness along side sea bass with a crisp, charred skin accompanied by lobster meat and bacon. A few of us shared these dishes and simply adored each bite though friends of mine who ordered the “grilled trout with thyme and garlic” were disappointed. It arrived as a whole fish, bones and head intact. This wouldn’t have bothered me but I understand it warranted a more thorough description. We sipped some specialty cocktails like “The Freemans” with rye, pomegranate molasses and orange bitters which were artfully constructed though others tasted like… well, bug juice.

Despite some coups in the food department, I’m big on service, and that’s something that Freemans sorely lacked. We waited an entire course for our fittingly hip waiter to bring our first round of drinks, ordered as soon as we’d arrived. He then brought food in a strangely confusing order. It seemed as if he’d forgotten to put things into the kitchen. The spinach salad I enjoyed actually arrived after our sea bass and prior to our macaroni. Huh? I’ve heard from friends that they’ve received better service than Friday night’s so I have to keep that in mind before dismissing it fully. Yes we were a large party of 9 and people were packed into the restaurant like sardines, but I know the staff at Freemans has been overwhelmed since its popular inception in 2004. They should be comfortable with it.

I would still generally recommend Freemans as a great place for a boisterous, hearty meal with friends. The dishes were well-executed, especially given their modest price tags. I just hope you’re luckier than I on the service.

Freemans: End of Freeman Alley- Off Rivington (betw. Bowery and Chrystie)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entree Price: $13-$26

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Commerce

It’s a good thing the food at Commerce is phenomenal because with service like last Friday’s, they could be out of business by now. Sure, a new restaurant can have a grace period of finessing timing issues and training staff, but after being open for two months, they should know better. Gael Greene illustrated it perfectly in her review, where she said, “If splendid food comes first, we’ll write off the painful din at Commerce and tonight’s overanxious Mary Popinjay server…” Gael’s experience mirrored mine perfectly, and I was disappointed to feel that way after being wooed by the charming, tiny nook that is Commerce street and the relaxed yet elegant feel of the restaurant.

After being seated forty minutes after our reservation, we were miffed, but tried to stay positive despite being seated in a sea of diners. Could they have possibly crammed any more tables in here? The hostess apologized for the wait and our waiter was friendly when he approached us and asked if we wanted to order drinks—then asked if we had just sat down— asked if we might want menus—and finally brought them. Huh? Within the next five minutes, three different people tried to take our drink order on five separate occasions. After the third time I pleaded for them to let us be, we’d let them know when we were ready. But alas, yet more people approached our table to ask. I leaned over to my cousin and asked, “Are we on an episode of Boiling Points?” (a show in which people’s tempers are tested in aggravating situations) But no, this was real! I took the quickest glance possible at the wine list and ordered a Hogue Riesling 2004, from Alsace, to prevent any further badgering. Our wine arrived and their heavenly bread plate arrived complete with six different types of perfectly crisp, warm bread including their signature “pretzel bread.” We exhaled, pleased that things might start to turn up.

The praise I’d heard of Commerce shined in the food. An asparagus fricassee with mushrooms and a poached egg was rich in flavor, in a delicately perfumed broth. A sweet potato tortelloni had an amiable sweetness, dotted with a generous sprinkling of hazelnuts. My entrée of sweet lobster meat with soft vegetables and gnocchi had me sopping up the sauce with bread. We rounded out the meal with an unfortunately tart rice pudding plus an exotic cheese plate with gooey, pungent delights. Yes, the portions were small (as many have said), but that bread basket fills you up.

I was feeling pleased again until the waiter snatched the bill from us moments after paying and I was reminded where I was dining. Despite impeccable food, Commerce’s rushed service left a sour taste in my mouth.

Commerce: 50 Commerce Street (Betw Bedford and Barrow)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entrée Price: $23-$34

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Jane

I’m still smacking my lips from the delightful meal I shared with friends at Jane last night. Jane has the type of relaxed elegance that would make one want to return on a weekly basis. Top it off with friendly, spot-on service and terrific food, and you’ve got a home-run of a meal in my book.

I started with the five lettuce salad served with Grana Padano cheese, which is similar to Parmigiano-Reggiano. My friends had the salmon and avocado tartare and the chopped market salad. I had actually mispoke and intended to order a baby arugula and pear salad with blue cheese and sun dried cranberries. The waitress kindly remedied the situation by bringing me a side of blue cheese on the house (the whole impetus behind me ordering the salad) I was overjoyed. For entrees my friends had a roasted organic chicken with whipped potatoes and asparagus while the other had wild mushroom ravioli with mascarpone and I had seared tuna with tuscan farro, shiitake mushrooms, and pomegranate glaze. Everything was sublime. The chicken was perfectly juicy and the mountain of mashed potatoes it came with were rich and flavorful. My tuna was perfectly raw and tender and the pomegranate glaze contributed a confectionary sweetness that built on the soft farro, rich with earthy flavors from the shiitakes.

The food at Jane delivers far beyond the moderate price tag it commands. I don’t have a negative thing to say about this gem in the West Village. I adored it!

Jane: 100 West Houston
Average Entree Price: $17-$24
Word to the Wise: Jane also serves a fantastic Sunday brunch and has a Sunday night dinner deal: select entrees are offered for $12.

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South Gate

Kerry Heffernan’s fresh new restaurant was glistening on a Saturday night, just three days after officially opening in the Essex House. It wasn’t just the dramatic sharply-cut mirrored wall, the custom built vintage-viewesque wine cellar, or the glass encased liquor cabinet that nearly stole the spotlight. There was excitement in the air, manifesting itself in our cheery waitress and blooming sommelier, both eager to answer and assist. With ingredients like “lovage” on the menu, we had a few questions. Prices are kept modest here, considering the ritzy Essex House neighborhood with iconic Alain-Ducasse just next door.

The meal opened with an amuse-bouche of airy cheese puffs and foie gras toasts—the puffs seemed far too reminiscent of Park Avenue Autumn’s amuse, but delicious nonetheless. For starters we shared the wild mushroom martini with spinach fondue, poached egg and crisp pancetta as well as hamachi with eucalyptus oil for Dad and buttercup flan with brussel sprouts, black trumpet mushrooms, and prosciutto for myself. The hamachi was uninspiring, once again reminding me of something seen at countless other restaurants (Park Avenue Cafe or even BLT Fish). The martini was earthy and rich though sloppily executed. I had expected fresh wild mushrooms, rather than a mushroom soupy-esque execution. The flan saved the day. The buttercup flan makes my list for one of the most unique appetizers I have ever had. The playful mingling of textures between the creamy flan, crisp sprouts and the sprinkle of breadcrumbs was sublime. Our waitress had urged me to try this savory flan, and I was so glad I did.

Entrees were loin of lamb with rutabaga and brussel sprouts for Dad and the red snapper with celery fondue and lovage (a type of green similar to angelica or celery) for myself. Though I appreciated the wildly generous multiple fillets I was given, the fish needed something else. A celery sauce atop red snapper does not make for an exquisite dish. A good dish, sure. But nothing I’ll need to run back for. My Dad felt the same about his lamb: good, not great. If South Gate can learn to kick the rest of its dishes up a smidge, to the level of the flan, the service, or the decor they’ve got something compelling here.

Is it fair to review a restaurant that has only been open for three days? Probably not, so please take my comments with a grain of salt. We were also told that South Gate is soon to roll out its tasting menu and nightly specials in upcoming weeks.

South Gate: 154 Central Park South (between 6th and 7th)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entree Price: $30-35

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Park Avenue Autumn

Plenty of restaurants have seasonal menus, but the newly revamped Park Avenue Café is the first restaurant to change not just its food, but its entire décor with the season. Thus, Park Avenue Autumn (transitioned from Park Avenue Summer in September) is cloaked in a Fall color palette with deep orange tones present in shiny copper gobelets which hang from the ceiling and an intricate wooden light fixture which spans the entire dining room. Prior to my visit, I wondered to myself how the idea could be executed tastefully. I envisioned silliness like paper leaf cut-outs plastered to walls and children’s hand tracings mimicking turkeys. But Avro Ko (designers of Public and Stanton Social) are talented, creating the mood in a clear yet graceful manner.

The Autumnal menu focuses on earthy ingredients like chanterelle and trumpet mushrooms, squash, truffles, apricots, figs, pumpkins, and pistachios. Each dish sounded inspiring and we had a very difficult time choosing which to order. Sauteed foie gras with roasted apricots and brioche panzanella? Prosciutto with figs? Venison with pomegranate and pumpkin seeds? Roasted chicken and pumpkin pie? What a tough decision. As we perused we ordered a bottle of Etude Pinot Noir and enjoyed a heavenly amuse-bouche of fried risotto balls with truffles.

The waiter was patient and helpful as we made our decision, making recommendations along the way where appropriate. We started with some Plymouth rock oysters and Dad had the grilled wild quail, glazed with quince and served with a quinoa salad. I had the Autumn haystack with crispy shrimp. The haystack consisted of match-stick root vegetables like cabbage and carrot with deep fried shrimp on top. The root vegetables were refreshing in their light vinaigrette and the crispy battered shrimp fattened things up a bit. For entrees Dad had the veal chop with green-garlic bread crumbs and chanterelle mushrooms. The chop was deeply flavored, tender and very lightly dusted with the bread crumbs. I adored my lamb shank, served with saffron cauliflower, mint and pistachios. This was a shank like none other with meat so juicy it fell off the bone. The saffron cauliflower was nearly pureed, a perfect pairing to crunchy pistachio nuts. After enoying every bite of our entrees we made some room for a sorbet and ice cream sampler with flavors like honey, almond, and grape.

Near the end of the meal we had some fun with the German Sommelier, who poured a glass of wine for my Dad and I for us to blind taste. The wine turned out to be a Cabernet from Columbia Valley, Washington. For the record, I placed that it was Cabernet Sauvignon and that it was neither from California nor France but didn’t make it as far as Washington State. I guess I’ve got some more studying to do

The beautiful setting of Park Avenue Café, combined with stellar food, made for an incredible meal. Near the end we spoke with Michael Stillman, proprietor, who divulged some of the features of the Park Avenue Winter (Wonderland). I cannot wait to return and see for myself.

Park Avenue Autum: 100 East 63rd Street
Cuisine: New American, Seasonal Ingredients

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Country

I wanted to love Country. The dining room is breathtakingly beautiful with ostentatious chandeliers, tastefully cased in glass. The open kitchen adds another theatrical element to the experience. The well-heeled waiters skate through the room, contributing additional levels of charm. Country had all the workings of a top-notch dining experience. My family loved it, but somehow it missed the bar for me.

Country’s menu is a four course tasting menu, with optional supplements. It changes daily, an impressive feat for any restaurant. On the night we went they had a special whole white truffle which was showcased around the table for us all to smell. For an additional $80, the truffle could be added to any dish. The supplements all featured the white truffle as well. All fine and impressive, but not worthwhile in any of our opinions.

The meal began with an amuse-bouche of a fried frog’s leg in a cream sauce followed by a tiny quail egg, mini sweet potato tarts and some kind of salmon puff. Everyone around the table ordered differently. Duck stuffed with foie gras was a highlight: intensely flavorful and delicately accented with the foie. A butternut squash risotto appetizer was a real hit with my Grandma. All of my dishes were real misses though: a poached egg with proscuitto and frisee, bland pork cheeks, and a striped bass with squid (squid missing in action). It’s hard to place what was lacking but I wasn’t “wowed” by anything. Dessert was a bit of a recovery with a sorbet intermezzo followed by rice pudding and a chocolate mint dome with vanilla ice cream. The courses were timed well and the service was great. Plates arrived in a well-conceived manner, the real issue was the elements served on them.

Perhaps I ordered poorly and missed the real signature items? The New York Times gave it an “excellent.” At these prices however, every dish should be excellent.

Country: 90 Madison Avenue at 29^th in the Carlton Hotel
Cuisine: French
Word to the wise: There is also a café below Country, a more relaxed option.

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Hearth

Hearth, as its name suggests, was a warm reprieve from an arduous day of fasting last week for Yom Kippur. Despite sleeping until noon and passing time with a three-hour facial, I was ready to eat my hand off when we finally sat down at 6:30. Hey, it’s tough

The Hearth sentiment is more present in the décor with its warm red tones, exposed brick walls and textured fabric wallpaper than in an actual Hearth at the restaurant. Though I’ve heard there is one tucked away in a corner somewhere. Our waiter was very understanding of our plight so he brought some red snapper crudo to take the edge off as soon as we sat down.

The restaurant was started by Marco Canora, who previously cooked at Gramercy Tavern. He continued the legend that Tom Colicchio began of focusing on fresh ingredients, without too much pomp and circumstance. The menu changes daily, further emphasizing the freshness factor. All of our dishes were very well executed from a grilled quail with farro salad, tomato preserves and poached quail egg to a roasted striped bass with calamari, chick peas, swiss chard and garlic. The food is mainly new American with some Italian influences in pastas like a delicate papardelle with tomatoes and large ruby red shrimp. The wine list at Hearth is truly special, meant to educate and not intimidate with whole sections entitled: “German Riesling” which yells: “RIESLING IS NOT AN INHERENTLY SWEET WINE.” It compares a well balanced wine to a match between The Rock and Stone Cold Steve Austin on a Monday night while enjoying pigs in a blanket. Someone is giving a lot of thought to making wine approachable, and I love it. Aside from the wine there is also an impressive array of microbrews and other “libations.”

The meal was rounded out with a delightfully airy goat cheese cheesecake with grape sorbet. The final icing on the cake was the coaster for our espresso which read: “Food: 1. Buy it with thought 2. Cook it with care 3. Serve just enough 4. Save what will keep 5. Eat what would spoil 6. Home grown is best. Don’t Waste It. We learned this little excerpt is from the depression. What a charming spot- I highly recommend it.

Hearth- 403 E 12 street and 1st Ave
Cuisine- New American, Italian

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