Toloache

It is often said that Manhattan is starving for decent Mexican restaurants. We’ve got plenty of mediocre, Tex-Mex style establishments but the West coast cities have us beat in terms of authentic Mexican cuisine. So, is Hell’s Kitchen newcomer Toloache the answer to your Mexican-craving dreams and desires? Probably not, but it’s a fresh face and the food sure is tasty.

Toloache offers an extensive list of tacos including everything from marinated pork with pineapple to braised beef tongue. They even offer a specialty of “oaxacan-style grasshoppers.” Yes, they’re real grasshoppers. In addition they have ceviches and inspired entrees like whole grilled branzino with jicama-red cabbage as well as a “pollo Toloache” with chipotle marinated chicken breast, corn and pico de gallo. The menu dances between safe offerings and unique twists like a dried fig salsa and avocado French fries. Toloache is an inviting two-story restaurant with bright yellow colored walls and decorative lamps hanging from the high ceilings.

Service was frighteningly over-eager. I’m not sure if our waitress was rushing so she could get to an audition or if she just lacked timing finesse. There were plenty of empty tables in the restaurant yet we were constantly checked on, pushed to order and plates were removed prematurely by the bus boys. At one point my friend was going in for another dip of guacamole only to find the cup had been removed from beneath his hand. Entrees arrived while we were still eating our appetizer and the bill was provided to us without our request. Another round of drinks wasn’t plausible.

Aside from the service issues we did enjoy our food. We started with a guacamole trio which came with a fruit guacamole made with pomegranate, mango, quince, habanero and basil as well as a spicy guacamole with tomato, red onion, chipotle and queso fresco as well as a traditional guac with serranos. I had roasted garlic shrimp served on a crispy tortilla with black beans and spaghetti squash. The crisp tortilla seemed out of place as it was soaked in sauce (making it not so crisp) but the shrimp had a delightfully sweet flavor and was a great match for the soft spaghetti squash. My friends ordered chicken enchiladas which came with dried fig salsa, green apple salad, and “Mexican cheeses” and the other had mole poblano (chicken) with Jerusalem artichoke and plantain gratin. Both enjoyed their dishes. Unfortunately the grass hoppers weren’t in the cards for us that night. I’ll have to return with someone brave enough to try them with me

Like I said, Toloache isn’t revolutionizing Mexican cuisine in Manhattan but if you’re pre- theater or in a rush for any other reason, it’s good to have on your list.

Toloache: 251 W 50^th Between Broadway and 8^th
Cuisine: Mexican
Word to the Wise: Order a margarita and avoid the watered down sangria. They have hundreds of tequilas to choose from, even Mezcal.

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Hell’s Kitchen

I made my second trip to Hell’s Kitchen (the restaurant, not the location) on Saturday for dinner and found it to be just as enjoyable as the first. Overall, this is a great spot to hit pre-theater or whenever in the neighborhood for decent modernized Mexican food and drinks. I started with a frozen margarita and my friend had a sangria- both delicious and adequately strong. They have an extensive tequila list as well. We shared two appetizers: hoja santa crusted (no clue what that is) tuna tostadas with guacamole and grilled pineapple and tamarind marinated filet mignon chalupas with grilled tomatillo and guajillo sauce. The tender filet and the crisp chalupa was a nice harmony but the tuna tostada preparation was odd- two thick cuts of seared tuna atop the tostadas rather than diced tuna. For entrees he had the grilled wild salmon with sweet corn pudding , baked vegetable cake and salsa rioja while I had the grilled shrimp with serrano sauce, sweet plantain and guacamole. My shrimp was out of this world. It was served with a mountain of crispy carrot and cucumber matchsticks- a delicate crunch with the soft and sweet plantain. Service was very quick and adequately friendly. Overall, a great meal and I would even pay a third visit if in the neighborhood again.

Hell’s Kitchen: Mexican, Eclectic
Location: 679 9th Avenue (betw 46th and 47th)

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