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Soto
April 28th, 2008
After hearing about this West Village newcomer running in the same circles as heavy weights Sushi Yasuda and Kuruma Zushi, expectations were high. Chef Sotohiro Kosugi had a big following in Atlanta and he was met in New York with much anticipation.
If you walk too quickly down 6th ave, you’ll surely miss Soto. The crisp, stark white dining room lets the flavors of the food sing, without any distractions. Sotohiro’s exquisite offerings on a Friday night splurge of a dinner, met their mark. Though a generous 12-piece omakase (eel, toro, uni, horse mackerel, amber jack amongst others), pre-dressed with a touch of soy was painfully fresh, the dishes from the kitchen cannot be missed. Lobster with mango, portabella and panko came in elegant cuts, a beautiful marriage of flavors. A creamy sea urchin wrapped in thinly sliced squid with shiso and a quail egg is highly recommended as well. Soto doesn’t offer home made desserts, but a mochi ice cream sampler was the perfect sweet finish. We washed it all down with some crisp sake, recommended by our waitress. Unfortunately, a long lag time between our appetizers and omakase tainted the meal, though we passed the time with a complimentary bowl of edamame.
Soto- 357 6th Ave (near Washington Pl)
Cuisine- Japanese
Average Entrée-$60
Sake Bar Hagi
March 18th, 2008
You have to hunt to find this subterranean Japanese small plates shop, hidden below a larger sushi restaurant. Perhaps that’s why the Times Square mobs have yet to invade it, despite its convenient location on West 49th. If you define authentic Japanese food by the number of Japanese people in a restaurant (as some unabashedly do) then this place equals authenticity at its best. My friend and I were the only Caucasians in the restaurant, which was packed on a Wednesday evening in the middle of a snow storm.
Any elegance lost in the gruff service and torn menus, is made up for in intensely flavored dishes that cash in at 3 bucks a pop. Don’t miss inventive yakitori like chicken meatball, enoki mushroom wrapped with bacon, and teriyaki squid. A mini “udon” pot filled to the brim with hearty noodles, poached egg, and shrimp tempura will make you wonder why David Chang’s ramen gets so much hype. Adventurous eaters can go to town here with deep fried chicken gizzard and yakitori chicken skin. Oh, and what else do they have at Sake Bar Hagi? An incredible list of sake and shochu. My sake knowledge, or lack-there-of, is limited, so we resorted to the smaller list of featured sakes with short, English descriptions.
I would eat here more frequently, if not for its unfortunate location. Now that I’ve let you in on the secret though, I’d recommend braving the Times Square crowds for at least one visit.
Sake Bar Hagi: 152 W 49th Street
Cuisine: Japanese, Small Plates
Average Entrée Price: $3-$8
Ono
January 26th, 2008
Evidently, Ono’s time has come and gone as Jeffrey Chodorow’s once-trendy sushi den in the Gansevoort Hotel was near empty last week. I could almost hear the crickets chirping as we walked past rows of sake bottles under spotlights lining the walls. Walking into the sea of empty tables felt like entering some kind of sad club, too desperate to bother with the velvet rope. One would say it’s a shame, but with rushed service and rudely inflated prices, I hesitate to mourn the loss.
To be fair, the meal was not all bad. I gobbled up crunchy rice crackers, dusted with spice as we selected sake and beer. I enjoyed a guiltfully saucy salmon appetizer with shiitake mushroom, eggplant, and endive. My “tuna yuba” roll made with yuba seaweed, chopped tuna, seared tuna, and tempura flakes was fresh. The soft texture of the yuba seaweed which is a thin “skin” made from boiled soymilk was unique. E’s house salad was fine enough but when vegetable rolls cost $9, they better be speckled with gold. (These were not).
The thing is, the dishes are edible but forgettable. Anybody can douse fish in oil and black sauce and make it taste good. Kiku Sushi, down the block from me can also create a fresh tuna roll. Places like Ono are supposed to take flavors to a higher level, which it completely missed for me.
It was only after dining there that I heard of Ono’s impending March closing, only to be reopened as Maxim Steak, some type of bizarre Chodorow/Maxim partnership. And you thought Kobe Club was a machismo fest!
If you have some type of perverted curiosity to try out Ono before closing time by all means go, but don’t say I didn’t warn you!
Ono- 18 9th Avenue At Gansevoort Street
Cuisine- Japanese, Sushi
Average Entree Price- $20-$60
Cube 63
January 15th, 2008
If you’re looking for a sushi spot that feels more like a fast-food cafeteria, then Cube 63 may be for you. The ease of BYOB hardly makes up for the gruff attitude and out-of-sync service at this lower east side hotbox. I get that this place is supposed to be casual, but it’s taken to another level. We were packed in like sardines, sandwiched between tables on either side of us with barely room to shift chairs. Our waitress barely made eye contact as she took our order and scurried off to open our wine. Despite the loss in atmosphere and service, the sushi is decent, but I can think of many affordable sushi spots with all of the above going for them.
We started with edamame to share for the table then I had a kani (crabstick) salad while my friends had an avocado salad, an order of gyoza, and a house salad. These were all executed quite well, and I enjoyed the kani salad which was delicately flavored with sesame seeds. Entrees were a “63 special” which came with 2 pieces of tuna, yellowtail, salmon, eel and a spicy tuna roll as well as an order of soba noodles and a “63 roll”, packed with flavor despite its tiny size with spicy tuna, avocado and lobster salad. The roll was a bit meager so I also ordered an electric roll which came deep fried, despite any mention of that on the menu. Though I didn’t put up much of a fight (fried food? how did this get here?), it wasn’t my anticipation, the greasy mess disappointed me.
I don’t think I’ll be returning to Cube 63, and I don’t recommend you rushing there either.
Cube 63: 63 Clinton Stret
Cuisine: Sushi
Entree Price: $18-$24
Word to the Wise: BYOB is one of few benefits at this place so don’t forget the booze at home!
Kuma Inn
December 16th, 2007
Hidden above a lower east side store front is Kuma Inn, an eatery serving up Asian tapas that deliver unique tastes well beyond their modest price tags. Though the relaxed décor makes it feel like a neighborhood joint, Kuma Inn commands long waits on weekend nights. I stopped in with a couple of friends on Thursday evening and was very pleased with what they have to offer.
The solo waitress greeted us at the door, asking if the third member of our party would be here shortly. “We don’t typically seat parties until all of the guests have arrived.” She said. I glanced around, puzzled at the host of empty tables in the restaurant. I understand this policy for a crowded restaurant, but it seemed silly for us to stand and wait knowing our third friend was in a cab on her way. “Really? You can’t just seat us now? I mean… ” I gestured around the empty restaurant. She acquiesced and let us sit. With cold Winter temperatures perhaps keeping people at home, Thursday night must have been an anomaly for Kuma. She was used to policing diners more aggressively. No matter, she agreed and we sat down.
Kuma Inn is BYOB, a great cost savings in itself. I brought a 2000 David Frost Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. It was showing beautifully after some age with a seductive velvety texture and a lingering length. The menu consists of a list of about thirty tapas, inspired by the chef’s Filipino mother and Thai Father. Some were real successful while others fell short but at $2-$8 a plate, you can’t lose. They also had some great specials that we tried as well. We started with steamed edamame with thai basil lime oil then moved to a host of small plates which arrived in rapid-fire, overwhelming our table. Wasabi pork shumai, sautéed Chinese sausage with thai chili lime sauce, stir fried noodles with pork, sausage, and bean sprouts as well as deeply aromatic garlic rice were the big hits in my book. Some skippable items were a crispy tilapia special, a grilled baby octopus with bamboo shoots and some Thai sticky rice. It seemed that meat dishes were more well executed than seafood, something to keep note of for future visits. Though not a perfect meal, it was a lot of fun sampling the menu items.
Kuma Inn: 113 Ludlow, 2nd Floor, near Delancey
Cuisine: Asian, Tapas
Word to the Wise: Order a few dishes at a time to pace the meal and prevent table crowding. 
Bond St
December 4th, 2007
This Greenwich Village sushi den is just as alive and en vogue as it was before a fire was rumored to have destroyed it in March of this year. On a Friday evening at 9:30 it was packed with pretty people dressed in their sharpest of outfits, filling every level and dark corner of the establishment. Upon entering we were not-so-warmly greeted by the host who smugly informed us (sans apology) that they were behind schedule and we’d have to wait for our reservation. Though disappointing, this would have been fine had it been delivered in a nicer manner. I suppose us pions were lucky to even BE at Bond Street Sushi, let alone expect to be seated on time!
When our table was ready we were directed to the elevator and headed to the second floor, where we were luke warmly greeted by another host. “Ms. Strung”? He asked. I acquiesced and we followed him to our table. Despite his attitude we were led to a dirty table, filled with dishes and spilled soy sauce. He shamefully beckoned a bus boy to clear. I would recommend a slice of humble pie for the hosts at Bond St. If you’re going to have an attitude, you should at least get it right.
A would-be sour mood was gracefully salvaged by our wonderful waitress Heather who was incredibly sweet and knowledgeable. We ordered a bottle of sake which was crisp, smooth and fruity, perhaps the best sake I’ve had. Bond St is known for having both uber-fresh sushi and unique hot items from the creative kitchen. We ordered two hot appetizers to start: seared tuna and foie gras with Asian pear chutney, plum wine glaze and holy basil as well as a Wagyu tataki of seared kobe beef with truffle butter. Both dishes were outstanding. The rich foie held up to the sweet chutney with a hint of crispness from the basil leafs. The thinly sliced rounds of Wagyu tataki simply melted in the mouth with decadent truffle butter adding layers of flavor and aroma. For sushi my cousin had a sesame crusted shrimp roll with orange curry dressing and reduced balsamic vinegar as well as a spicy tuna with chili mayonnaise. I opted for a spicy yellowtail roll, two pieces of salmon belly nigiri (Heather’s recommendation) and two pieces of giant clam nigiri. I found the clam to be a bit tough and overly fishy though the salmon belly and spicy yellowtail were fresh. I was surprised to find the creamy orange curry dressing pairing up well with crunchy shrimp, an odd coupling that worked for me though not as much for my cousin.
My final criticism would be that they could stand to have some more modest offerings. Though our sake was delicious it was $46 – the cheapest on the menu. Though the sushi was great, I feel that I could have spent a fraction somewhere else for something just as great. The real uniqueness of Bond St was in the cooked items like the Wagyu and the foie.
All-in-all, Bond St was a great meal despite rocky beginnings. The likelihood of me returning is slim though, unless someone else is paying 
Bond St: 6 Bond Street Near Lafayette
Cuisine: Japanese, Sushi
Word to the Wise: There is a lounge/bar downstairs
Nolia
October 17th, 2007
I have mentioned a few under-the-radar winners in alphabet city in the past (Le Miu, Esperanto). These restaurants have had limited publicity despite their high quality food and affordable prices. Nolia can now be added to that list. Nolia calls its cusine “French Asian fusion”, offering dishes such as truffle risotto along side tuna tataki; goat cheese salad along side coconut chicken soup. I read the menu with slight trepidation- can they make this work? Somehow, they make it work rather well.
A filet mignon spring roll starter was filled with layers of filet and julienned daikon and carrots with a red wine miso dipping sauce. A robust shrimp and corn cake was accompanied by a fiery roasted red pepper sauce. Our “Sunrise” roll filled with assorted fish, crab, spicy tempura, avocado and red tobiko was elegantly constructed and fresh. Entrees at Nolia consist of both listed options such as grilled mahi mahi with hearts of palm and tropical salsa and the opportunity to choose a protein “simply grilled or roasted” with a custom sauce and side dish. I chose the second route and opted for a wild king salmon with champagne-wasabi cream and truffle risotto while a friend enjoyed free range chicken with Napa cabbage, shiitake mushrooms and a pineapple sweet and sour sauce. Unfortunately the sauce on the salmon was a bit of a miss. The champagne-wasabi cream tasted like neither, though it was still a fair match for the fish. The presence of truffles however, was evident in the rich and creamy risotto.
Service at Nolia was cordial but spotty. Drink orders required reminders and bus boys were over-eager to clear then absent when needed. I hope they remedy these errors as I think that Nolia has tremendous potential.
Nolia: 158 Avenue C and 10th Street
Cuisine: French- Asian Fusion
Word to the wise: Nolia offers a pre-fixed 3 course meal for $25 from Sunday- Thursday as well as drink specials on various nights. Make friends with the bartender and he just might offer you a free shot.
