Bobo

After creeping down the staircase and into the ornate basement of Bobo, I double checked with the host that I was in fact, in the right place. With no sign present at Bobo, it’s tough to tell, and my question was met with a smug “yes” by the host. I had hoped we could have a chuckle at the ambiguous entrance, but I was wrong. I waited for my cousins and sister at the bar, admiring the setting, and hoping the pretension would slowly disappear.

Bobo really is beautiful, as it’s an old 1800s town house, refurbished into a restaurant. Walking through the main dining room and out to the garden was like creeping through a decadent dinner party, to our own private hideaway in the back. But the service and the food turned the meal into a sour occasion.

An appetizer of sweetbreads and a quail with spicy almond sauce were hits, but a pathetic $17 tuna crudo appetizer was frankly, a joke. The dish consisted of 3 paper-thin slices of tuna with some cilantro tossed on top. I’m happy to pay for food that’s worthy of its price tag, but this was an insultingly small dish that was devoid of flavors. Wild striped bass with basil puree and chorizo had a tough consistency and lacked seasoning.

Aside from the misses on the food, our waiter was absent for most of the meal, forcing us to pour our own wine and explain to the bus boys where to deliver each plate. The attitude and prices at Bobo warrant far better.

The Brunmeister himself had a perfect analogy, comparing BoBo to an attractive cheerleader. You wanna hate’er because there’s not much substance, but she’s so pretty to look at!

I don’t relish paying for tap water without warning, either. I get that they have an Italian filtration system and it’s not purely tap, but a warning and an option would have been appreciated. I’m all for charity, but why not donate proceeds from my cousins’ $17 bird food tuna appetizer?

Such is the plight of BoBo. And after a year in business and a few chefs, it’s clear I’m not alone in my opinion. Perhaps if they cut out some of the pretension, starting with placing a sign on the door and offering free tap water, their situation would improve. Save your money on this one.

Bobo: 181 W 10th Street and 7th Ave
Cuisine: French
Average Entree Price: $22-$34

Ilili

After spending 14 days in Israel, eating more hummus, shawarma and baba ghannouj than humanly possible, the prospect of Lebanese food was less than thrilling. I’d heard mixed things about Ilili, the “upscale” Lebanese restaurant recently opened in Gramercy. But their lamb dumplings with minted yogurt and fried sweetbreads (served at Toast of the Town, New York) intrigued me.

Ilili is a palatial, narrow restaurant with soaring ceilings and a masculine color palate of mahogany, spotted by comfy red chairs at each table. The expansive menu is split into vegetables, fish, meat, and “grill.”  Dishes are best enjoyed as shared items, explained our gracious waiter, who was so doting that he needlessly apologized each time he left the table.

The meal began with an amuse bouche from the kitchen of silky labne (strained yogurt with olive oil, mint and za’atar) with crisps. We ordered an assortment from each section of the menu, steering clear of the traditional and opting for stars like brussel sprouts fried with grapes, fig puree and walnuts as well as “manti” which is Lebanese pasta stuffed with beef, lamb and yogurt. Lamb chops with za’atar salsa verde were spicy and sweet, falling off the bone in their own juices. A mixed grill of chicken shish, beef kebab and beef kafta was tender and delicately seasoned, served along side inflated, warm pitas. If seeking more adventurous dishes, skip the thinly sliced octopus with hot pepper oil and go for the sweetly spiced kibbeh naya or steak tartar with burghul, onion and mint.

We brought a special wine as my Dad typically does (1990 Chateau Lafite, waa-waa-wee-wa) but later discovered that the owners have a relationship with the family that owns Paumonok Vineyards in Long Island, which explains the bevy of Long Island wines offered up at Ilili.

The meal was a real success and I can honestly say that I adored it. Each dish had a robust flavor profile unlike anything I’ve had before in Mediterranean food. There is a host of Mediterranean restaurants in Manhattan (Periyali, Ethos, Pera, Barbounia, and Thalassa come to mind) and they do a nice job, but I found that Ilili truly stood on its own.

Ilili: 236 5th Ave (betw 27th and 28th)
Cuisine: Contemporary Lebanese
Average Entrée Price: $18-$34

Freemans

Freemans: that fashionable, taxidermied nook at the end of an alley on the Lower East side was a hit and a miss for me on Friday evening.

I loved the atmosphere which felt like an escape to a hidden hunting lodge where lots of friendly, attractive people were hiding. There are multiple rooms, all adorned with heads of wildlife like deer, geese, and wild boar. The rickety, wooden tables and chairs are at home in this understated living room.

The cozy food at Freemans was a fair match to the environment. The hot artichoke dip came highly recommended and lived up to its promises with fresh chunks of artichoke and gooey cheese that we spread on crisp toasts. It was easily the best artichoke dip I’ve had, ever. A three-cheese macaroni was heavenly, with a nice crisp bread crumb on top. A traditional spinach salad with boiled egg, bacon, pine nuts and mustard vinaigrette was a refreshing, slight break from the richness along side sea bass with a crisp, charred skin accompanied by lobster meat and bacon. A few of us shared these dishes and simply adored each bite though friends of mine who ordered the “grilled trout with thyme and garlic” were disappointed. It arrived as a whole fish, bones and head intact. This wouldn’t have bothered me but I understand it warranted a more thorough description. We sipped some specialty cocktails like “The Freemans” with rye, pomegranate molasses and orange bitters which were artfully constructed though others tasted like… well, bug juice.

Despite some coups in the food department, I’m big on service, and that’s something that Freemans sorely lacked. We waited an entire course for our fittingly hip waiter to bring our first round of drinks, ordered as soon as we’d arrived. He then brought food in a strangely confusing order. It seemed as if he’d forgotten to put things into the kitchen. The spinach salad I enjoyed actually arrived after our sea bass and prior to our macaroni. Huh? I’ve heard from friends that they’ve received better service than Friday night’s so I have to keep that in mind before dismissing it fully. Yes we were a large party of 9 and people were packed into the restaurant like sardines, but I know the staff at Freemans has been overwhelmed since its popular inception in 2004. They should be comfortable with it.

I would still generally recommend Freemans as a great place for a boisterous, hearty meal with friends. The dishes were well-executed, especially given their modest price tags. I just hope you’re luckier than I on the service.

Freemans: End of Freeman Alley- Off Rivington (betw. Bowery and Chrystie)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entree Price: $13-$26

Macondo

This “street-food,” spot by the owners of upscale Rayuela, recently opened on a bustling corner of East Houston. The location fits the menu, a mélange of borrowings from allover the Spanish speaking world featuring anything from Cuban plantain balls with pork to shrimp empanadas and Venezuelan arepas

It’s meant to be casual, with netting that separates tables, exposed brick, and a chalkboard walled bathroom with “100 Anos de Soledad” (the book which inspired the name of the restaurant) etched on the walls. But despite its breezy state-of-mind, the flavors here are pretty serious.

You can crawl up to the airy bar from the street, where three stools are perched beneath the overhang. The aguacate + mescal is a signature drink featuring honey, avocado, agave nectar, midori, cointreau, lime juice, and scorpion mescal. The harmony of sweet and tangy flavors was a nice kickoff to the meal.

We went just a week after opening night, so my (few) criticisms will be reserved here. Some shining dishes were the “chorishrimp” with Columbian chorizo and chili sauce as well as an arepa “Willianco” served with oven roasted quail, spinach, figs and manchego cheese. Don’t miss savory flat breads like the “setas” with mushroom, caramelized onions, membrillo (quince paste), cabra cheese, and pistachio. Our waiter was just as excited to explain the dishes as we were to sample them.

After a meal like this I always proudly state how soon I’d like to rush back. But I know on my next visit, our brief 15-minute table wait will be a thing of the past. Check out Macondo on your next free Summer night in the city, before everybody else does!

Macondo: 157 East Houston Street between Allen and Eldridge
Cuisine: Latin Street Food, “comida de la calle”

Yerba Buena

Two weeks after opening night, Yerba Buena was bustling with people munching on inspired Pan-Latin fare, a cross between Peruvian, Cuban, and Argentinian food. Yerba Buena reaches above the mark with sophisticated décor, beyond many of the shabby chic alphabet city establishments (which I love as well). An open kitchen lends well to the narrow space, allowing aromas of roasted suckling pig and chipotle BBQ ribs to spread throughout the room.

Service was a bit spotty, though one can’t be too critical of such a new restaurant. There were moments when some dishes were ready and brought promptly, while others had to wait with empty plates. The passion in the venture was evident though as the owner himself pulled out a chair for my friend, and brought my cocktail from the bar to the table, insisting that I not carry it myself. Our waitress was excited to tell us about her favorite dishes, while answering any questions about the various sections of the menu, listed as “Para Picar”, “Frios”, “Botanas”, “Chanco”, and “Para La Mesa.” My vegetarian friend appreciated the small “Vegetales” section, as most of the dishes featured either pork, chorizo, or short ribs.

Cocktails here are carefully designed by former Pegu Club bartenders, like the Desert Rose, made with rose infused Plymouth gin, prickly pear puree, and lemon juice. The wine list complements the food, with offerings from Argentina, Spain, and Chile for the most part. We ordered a Martin Codax Albarino 2006, which was crisp and delightful with the heat from dinner.

We started with a fiery guacamole then had appetizers of crispy calamari salad, crispy grouper tacos with jicama, and a citric grouper ceviche. Entrees were pillowy arepas served with homemade bacon and “three types of cheese, ”and empanadas with chihuahua cheese, corn and huitlacoche mushroom. We also shared wild mushrooms and sweet plantains with a spicy truffle crema. We closed the meal on a sweet note with black and white chocolate fondue served with churros, strawberries, bananas, and coconut cake.

Yerba Buena delivered a meal with distinct flavors in a beautiful setting, for a modest price tag. I think they can tie up some of the loose ends and become a great Alphabet City staple destination.

Yerba Buena: 23 Avenue A (betw 1st and 2nd streets)
Cuisine: Latin American
Average Entree Price: $17-$19

Soto

After hearing about this West Village newcomer running in the same circles as heavy weights Sushi Yasuda and Kuruma Zushi, expectations were high. Chef Sotohiro Kosugi had a big following in Atlanta and he was met in New York with much anticipation.

If you walk too quickly down 6th ave, you’ll surely miss Soto. The crisp, stark white dining room lets the flavors of the food sing, without any distractions. Sotohiro’s exquisite offerings on a Friday night splurge of a dinner, met their mark. Though a generous 12-piece omakase (eel, toro, uni, horse mackerel, amber jack amongst others), pre-dressed with a touch of soy was painfully fresh, the dishes from the kitchen cannot be missed. Lobster with mango, portabella and panko came in elegant cuts, a beautiful marriage of flavors. A creamy sea urchin wrapped in thinly sliced squid with shiso and a quail egg is highly recommended as well. Soto doesn’t offer home made desserts, but a mochi ice cream sampler was the perfect sweet finish. We washed it all down with some crisp sake, recommended by our waitress. Unfortunately, a long lag time between our appetizers and omakase tainted the meal, though we passed the time with a complimentary bowl of edamame.

Soto- 357 6th Ave (near Washington Pl)
Cuisine- Japanese
Average Entrée-$60

Commerce

It’s a good thing the food at Commerce is phenomenal because with service like last Friday’s, they could be out of business by now. Sure, a new restaurant can have a grace period of finessing timing issues and training staff, but after being open for two months, they should know better. Gael Greene illustrated it perfectly in her review, where she said, “If splendid food comes first, we’ll write off the painful din at Commerce and tonight’s overanxious Mary Popinjay server…” Gael’s experience mirrored mine perfectly, and I was disappointed to feel that way after being wooed by the charming, tiny nook that is Commerce street and the relaxed yet elegant feel of the restaurant.

After being seated forty minutes after our reservation, we were miffed, but tried to stay positive despite being seated in a sea of diners. Could they have possibly crammed any more tables in here? The hostess apologized for the wait and our waiter was friendly when he approached us and asked if we wanted to order drinks—then asked if we had just sat down— asked if we might want menus—and finally brought them. Huh? Within the next five minutes, three different people tried to take our drink order on five separate occasions. After the third time I pleaded for them to let us be, we’d let them know when we were ready. But alas, yet more people approached our table to ask. I leaned over to my cousin and asked, “Are we on an episode of Boiling Points?” (a show in which people’s tempers are tested in aggravating situations) But no, this was real! I took the quickest glance possible at the wine list and ordered a Hogue Riesling 2004, from Alsace, to prevent any further badgering. Our wine arrived and their heavenly bread plate arrived complete with six different types of perfectly crisp, warm bread including their signature “pretzel bread.” We exhaled, pleased that things might start to turn up.

The praise I’d heard of Commerce shined in the food. An asparagus fricassee with mushrooms and a poached egg was rich in flavor, in a delicately perfumed broth. A sweet potato tortelloni had an amiable sweetness, dotted with a generous sprinkling of hazelnuts. My entrée of sweet lobster meat with soft vegetables and gnocchi had me sopping up the sauce with bread. We rounded out the meal with an unfortunately tart rice pudding plus an exotic cheese plate with gooey, pungent delights. Yes, the portions were small (as many have said), but that bread basket fills you up.

I was feeling pleased again until the waiter snatched the bill from us moments after paying and I was reminded where I was dining. Despite impeccable food, Commerce’s rushed service left a sour taste in my mouth.

Commerce: 50 Commerce Street (Betw Bedford and Barrow)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entrée Price: $23-$34

Jane

I’m still smacking my lips from the delightful meal I shared with friends at Jane last night. Jane has the type of relaxed elegance that would make one want to return on a weekly basis. Top it off with friendly, spot-on service and terrific food, and you’ve got a home-run of a meal in my book.

I started with the five lettuce salad served with Grana Padano cheese, which is similar to Parmigiano-Reggiano. My friends had the salmon and avocado tartare and the chopped market salad. I had actually mispoke and intended to order a baby arugula and pear salad with blue cheese and sun dried cranberries. The waitress kindly remedied the situation by bringing me a side of blue cheese on the house (the whole impetus behind me ordering the salad) I was overjoyed. For entrees my friends had a roasted organic chicken with whipped potatoes and asparagus while the other had wild mushroom ravioli with mascarpone and I had seared tuna with tuscan farro, shiitake mushrooms, and pomegranate glaze. Everything was sublime. The chicken was perfectly juicy and the mountain of mashed potatoes it came with were rich and flavorful. My tuna was perfectly raw and tender and the pomegranate glaze contributed a confectionary sweetness that built on the soft farro, rich with earthy flavors from the shiitakes.

The food at Jane delivers far beyond the moderate price tag it commands. I don’t have a negative thing to say about this gem in the West Village. I adored it!

Jane: 100 West Houston
Average Entree Price: $17-$24
Word to the Wise: Jane also serves a fantastic Sunday brunch and has a Sunday night dinner deal: select entrees are offered for $12.

Sake Bar Hagi

You have to hunt to find this subterranean Japanese small plates shop, hidden below a larger sushi restaurant. Perhaps that’s why the Times Square mobs have yet to invade it, despite its convenient location on West 49th. If you define authentic Japanese food by the number of Japanese people in a restaurant (as some unabashedly do) then this place equals authenticity at its best. My friend and I were the only Caucasians in the restaurant, which was packed on a Wednesday evening in the middle of a snow storm.

Any elegance lost in the gruff service and torn menus, is made up for in intensely flavored dishes that cash in at 3 bucks a pop. Don’t miss inventive yakitori like chicken meatball, enoki mushroom wrapped with bacon, and teriyaki squid. A mini “udon” pot filled to the brim with hearty noodles, poached egg, and shrimp tempura will make you wonder why David Chang’s ramen gets so much hype. Adventurous eaters can go to town here with deep fried chicken gizzard and yakitori chicken skin. Oh, and what else do they have at Sake Bar Hagi? An incredible list of sake and shochu. My sake knowledge, or lack-there-of, is limited, so we resorted to the smaller list of featured sakes with short, English descriptions.

I would eat here more frequently, if not for its unfortunate location. Now that I’ve let you in on the secret though, I’d recommend braving the Times Square crowds for at least one visit.

Sake Bar Hagi: 152 W 49th Street
Cuisine: Japanese, Small Plates
Average Entrée Price: $3-$8

South Gate

Kerry Heffernan’s fresh new restaurant was glistening on a Saturday night, just three days after officially opening in the Essex House. It wasn’t just the dramatic sharply-cut mirrored wall, the custom built vintage-viewesque wine cellar, or the glass encased liquor cabinet that nearly stole the spotlight. There was excitement in the air, manifesting itself in our cheery waitress and blooming sommelier, both eager to answer and assist. With ingredients like “lovage” on the menu, we had a few questions. Prices are kept modest here, considering the ritzy Essex House neighborhood with iconic Alain-Ducasse just next door.

The meal opened with an amuse-bouche of airy cheese puffs and foie gras toasts—the puffs seemed far too reminiscent of Park Avenue Autumn’s amuse, but delicious nonetheless. For starters we shared the wild mushroom martini with spinach fondue, poached egg and crisp pancetta as well as hamachi with eucalyptus oil for Dad and buttercup flan with brussel sprouts, black trumpet mushrooms, and prosciutto for myself. The hamachi was uninspiring, once again reminding me of something seen at countless other restaurants (Park Avenue Cafe or even BLT Fish). The martini was earthy and rich though sloppily executed. I had expected fresh wild mushrooms, rather than a mushroom soupy-esque execution. The flan saved the day. The buttercup flan makes my list for one of the most unique appetizers I have ever had. The playful mingling of textures between the creamy flan, crisp sprouts and the sprinkle of breadcrumbs was sublime. Our waitress had urged me to try this savory flan, and I was so glad I did.

Entrees were loin of lamb with rutabaga and brussel sprouts for Dad and the red snapper with celery fondue and lovage (a type of green similar to angelica or celery) for myself. Though I appreciated the wildly generous multiple fillets I was given, the fish needed something else. A celery sauce atop red snapper does not make for an exquisite dish. A good dish, sure. But nothing I’ll need to run back for. My Dad felt the same about his lamb: good, not great. If South Gate can learn to kick the rest of its dishes up a smidge, to the level of the flan, the service, or the decor they’ve got something compelling here.

Is it fair to review a restaurant that has only been open for three days? Probably not, so please take my comments with a grain of salt. We were also told that South Gate is soon to roll out its tasting menu and nightly specials in upcoming weeks.

South Gate: 154 Central Park South (between 6th and 7th)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entree Price: $30-35