Dirt Candy (Veggies with Va-Voom)

Anyone can cook a hamburger, But leave the vegetables to the professionals.

I may not fully agree with that statement from the Dirt Candy website, but if I were to leave my vegetables to anybody, it would be Chef Amanda Cohen, the mastermind behind this East Village crevice of a restaurant.

Dirt Candy is different than other great NYC vegetarian spots (Candle 79, Pure Food and Wine and Blossom)
1) the vegetables are the focus, rather than vegetable-meat transformations.

2) it is vegetarian, not vegan (though dishes can be prepared either way).

Each dish on the menu honors a particular vegetable, and then builds the accoutrements around it. There’s “parsnip” served with parsnip gnocchi, creamy root vegetable slaw and carrot crumbs. Or “radish” with kimchi doughnuts, grilled watermelon radishes, cilantro and wild arugula. It’s a good thing the menu is small.

Dirt Candy is so tiny that you’re practically sitting in the kitchen, regardless of your table. It’s a bit claustrophobic, but it creates some incredible aromas in the room. Our sweet waitress spoke about the dishes with a special kind of pride that’s hard to find these days. She knew the in’s and out’s of every dish. I felt like I’d been invited into someone’s chic living room.

Everyone who visits Dirt Candy must begin with the Jalapeno hush puppies with maple butter. You’ll learn right away that Cohen has no fear of the fryer when you bite into these hot, sweet nuggets of flavor. Follow that up with the luscious “mushroom” with portobello mousse, truffled toast, pear and fennel compote. I’ve heard people compare it to foie gras which might be a stretch, but the decadent texture and rich, earthy flavors make it understandable. Plus, building the layers of flavor on top of the crostini is just, fun.

My favorite dish of the evening was an unexpected hero, the “pumpkin” winter salad with four kinds of squash, toasted pepitas, pumpkin oil, blue cheese crouton. This salad is an awesome interplay of salty, sweet and smoky. The toasted pepitas seriously taste like bacon. The squash has a sweet glaze that makes each bite seriously transcendent.

My least favorite, though still successful dish was the “eggplant” with black olive fettuccine, eggplant jam, pickled eggplants, basil broth and ricotta. The flavor and complexity was there, like the other dishes but the fettuccine itself was clumpy.

The wine list is as short and thoughtful as the menu. Cohen calls it a “wine zoo for exotic animals”, and I’d agree. We selected the Thurnhoff Goldmuskateller ($35) from Northern Italy. It was all apples and honey on the nose and then on the palate, a completely different animal! It’s completely dry and piney on the palate but tightly woven with high acid that pulls it all together. An exotic animal, indeed. I love being surprised by a wine like this, and it complemented the meal perfectly.

After dining at Dirt Candy, it’s no surprise that this ambitious vegetarian restaurant was nearly booked a week in advance. Cohen is setting the bar high here with a tiny spot, bursting at the seams with flavor.

Location: 430 East 9th Street, Betw A and 1st
Food: Very Good
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entree Price: $12/$18
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Word to the Wise: Dirt Candy also has a regularly updated blog on their site featuring menu changes and various inspiration.

Esca (Heaven for a Fish Freak)

Warning: severe restaurant lovefest ahead.

David Pasternack and Mario Batali’s seafood shrine, Esca, is everything a restaurant should be from its stately dining room to its top-notch service and supreme food. This fish freak was in absolute heaven.

David Pasternack was doing crudo at Esca before crudo became cool. Some even credit him as the pioneer of this Italian raw fish trend in America. With a dash of coarse salt and a slather of olive oil, he brings sea creatures to new heights. But Pasternack is no one-trick-pony. His cooked preparations burst with flavor, honoring the fish and delighting diners. Even on a strange corner of 9th Avenue, Esca was packed at 9:45 on a Thursday evening.

As busy as Esca was, no less than three people smiled as we walked in, for no reason other than to welcome new customers. I’m fairly certain it was Pasternack himself, who I saw gazing across the room like a hawk, for any transgressions. First impressions such as this are key indicators of what lies ahead.

We shared three crudo: sea trout with crushed almonds, orata with meyer lemon and pink snapper with black salt. Each was more fresh and unique than the next. My favorite was the snapper while E loved the nuttiness of the trout. Since it was late, they were out of a lot of options. I planned on ordering the whole fish baked in salt but all they had left was the three-person portion of black sea bass. After some deliberation, we decided to go for it.

It arrived, gorgeously crusted in a thick shell of sea salt. They cracked the shell tableside and the sommelier brought the platter for us to gaze at before they filleted the fish. The whole dining room seemed to glance enviously at the presentation. I had a huge grin on my face , so much so, that the tipsy guy next to us was repeating “AWW, LOOK HOW HAPPY SHE IS!” After carefully deboning the bass and separating it into two generous portions, they drizzled a fragrant olive oil on top and served it. Don’t let the concept deceive you, the salt was subtly infused into the meat of the fish, rather than making it salty. We also shared a basic side salad and some sautéed cremini mushrooms along with the bass. We had NO problem finishing the portion for three, though it was plentiful ;) The fish was so fresh, I couldn’t bear to leave it over.

I’ve said enough about my recent trip to Gilt and I don’t want to dwell on the negative. But the treatment we received at Gilt vs. Esca was simply night and day. Every question we had, no matter how nit picky, no matter how detailed, was answered with respect by everyone at Esca from the sommelier, to the waiter and the bread boy. Our waiter went above and beyond, informing E of anything he should avoid be it a shellfish broth or bread possibly made with lard. The fact that he knew all of these details was a wonder in itself. Before visiting, I had read some reports of shaky service in recent years. I found it to be the opposite!

My respect for Batali increases with each restaurant of his that I visit. Esca is another example of why I love him. Unfortunately, he doesn’t love me. But that’s a story for another day.

The fact that Gilt has 2 Michelin stars and Esca now has 0 is an utter tragedy. Who are these loony people? Esca was a phenomenal dining experience that I’d love to repeat for my next special occasion.

Have you been to Esca? I would love to hear your thoughts.

Location: 402 W 43rd and 9th Ave
Food: Excellent
Service: Excellent
Average App/Entrée Price: $17/$32
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Quick Bites: U Cafe

The Basics: U Cafe is a little kosher spot on the Upper East Side with sandwiches, salads and such crafted with great attention to detail. A haloumi salad came in an artful display with shish kabobs of grilled cheese rubbed in za’atar spice with grilled peppers, onions and tomatoes. A sandwich on crisp Jerusalem toast (think a flat, toasted sesame bagel) was creamy and sharp, filled with feta, cheddar and tomato.  For your sweet tooth, go for the challah French toast with berries and whipped cream. Beware, some prices seem inflated for a casual cafe. Unfortunately it’s often par for the course at kosher restaurants.
Cuisine: Kosher (Dairy)
Food: Very Good
Service: Very Good
Value: Good
Average App/Entree Price: Around $15 for a salad or sandwich, $26 for an entree.
Location: 1436 Lexington Ave, (between 93rd and 94th)
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

SHO Shaun Hergatt (Tough to Say, But Worth It)

The extravagant SHO Shaun Hergatt opened less than a year ago in a risky climate for restaurateurs of all types, but even tougher for those with fine dining ambitions. I still recall when I wrote up SHO Shaun as part of the June restaurant report. Opening a glitzy French-Asian fusion restaurant with a long name, deep in the Financial District in the middle of a recession is frankly, ballsy. What were they thinking?

With every card stacked against it, SHO Shaun has plowed through this year, receiving praise from critics galore and even a Michelin star. Did I mention they’ve only been open for 7 months? Nevertheless, I’m never one to accept one opinion as fact and I couldn’t wait to see for myself. Though not a household name, Shaun Hergatt had great experience at Atelier de Joel Robuchon and other hotel restaurant experience at the Ritz Carlton both here and in Australia.

It has been some time since I had a meal as dazzling as dinner at SHO Shaun Hergatt. The seasonal French-Asian menu is a stark contrast to the  fusion cuisine of yore which is now painfully tired. You won’t find any duck breast with shiitake mushrooms here. You almost need a dictionary to read the menu. Tetragonia? Tatsoi? Rosella gel? It was all so exotic and exciting. And the service was perfectly orchestrated in a down-to-earth yet prideful manner. You’ll get inspired amuse-bouches like lobster creme and bread with truffle butter and a finale of petits-fours. Though the menu might sound intimidating, it all makes sense when the food arrives. SHO Shaun doesn’t force you to think as you eat, which was off-putting at Corton.

The martian-looking dish above is the red chilli and coconut milk glazed quail with a shiitake duxelle and tetragonia (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) The quail was crispy and sweet on the outside with a juicy center. As I sliced into the shiitake duxelle, liver oozed out with a richness counteracted by mustard. A quail egg was sandwiched between the duxelle and quail meat. Each component was complex and magnificent on its own but even better when combined.

For my entree I had flaky, sweet Chatham cod with a light dusting of fennel and orange kaffir lime-scented crème on the side. Its delicate flavors were a nice leveler to the quail appetizer.

My poor cod was greatly overshadowed by my Dad’s three-day short rib with a sweet crunchy crust of hazelnut and cranberry plus creamy parsnip purée on the side. The short rib’s tremendous flavors lingered on and on. I read on Always Hungry that Chef Hergatt make the luscious, tender meat by “marinading it for two days in red wine. The fat-end of the bone-in short rib is then roasted and braised in red wine marinade for six hours. The meat is de-boned and portioned into the length of a Mars Bar. It’s glazed with a reduced braising liquid that gives it the appearance of a chocolate-coated candy bar.” The plate is also adorned with slices of tomato confit, which tasted like sweet sun dried tomatoes and a few pearl onions. It’s a tough battle between the quail and the short rib for favorite dish of the evening.

For dessert we had the java cremeux with apricot croustillant and cardamom ice cream. I never go gaga for desserts (unless it’s a cheese plate) but I enjoyed the interplay of spice, coffee and sweet apricot. The flavors were spot-on with just enough sweetness. Even better than this dish though was the chocolate caramel salts which arrived with the petits-fours.

I sincerely hope that SHO Shaun’s unfortunate location won’t dissuade people from visiting. They’re doing everything right and I applaud Chef Hergatt for persevering to build such a phenomenal restaurant, against all odds. I’m sure he met many non believers along the way. Plus, $69 for a three-course meal like this is outrageous in New York! This food is truly transcendental.  Absolutely check out SHO Shaun Hergatt for your next special occasion. It will wow you!

Location: 40 Broad Street
Food: Excellent
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entrée Price: 3 Courses for $69
Value: Excellent
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

The Standard Grill (An Actual Review)

After assaulting SG in a recent post, it’s only fair that I follow-up and speak to the meal itself. Which truthfully, was pretty good. Walking into the main dining room at Standard Grill felt like coming upon a sleek oasis where the city’s cool crowd was hiding. It’s clear that the designers put great thought into the room, from the arched ceilings to the thousands of pennies packed into the floor, creating a glistening surface. The one thoughtless aspect may be the acoustics. There were moments at our cozy banquette when it seemed like the table of 10 girls to our left had actually joined our conversation.

I was miffed at having to wait 30 minutes after our reservation to sit down but once we arrived at our table, service greatly improved. Despite the chic crowd, our waitress was pleasant as a peach. We started with one of their punches which was Bourbon-based with spices and apples, served chilled in a gigantic bowl with oversized straws for sharing. Skeptics beware, the punch was well-crafted and smooth, not some watered down gimmick. I can’t say the same for my next drink made with scotch and simple syrup. I had to actually return it. It was so poorly mixed that each sip brought either pure alcohol or sugar.

The Standard Grill gives you some nice freebies for your patience including fresh bread in a paper satchel, radishes, and hunks of parmesan. With chef Dan Silverman of Lever House at the helm, the food at The Standard is mostly better than it has to be, with some slip-ups along the way. A haricots vert salad with yogurt, cinnamon and crisp shallots was soaked in the stuff but somehow tasted like nothing. But my whole rainbow trout with pine nuts and currants was tender and fresh. The sweet accent played well with the fish. A quirky halibut Hollandaise was a hit as well with a nicely sized fillet and the creamy sauce on the side. The biggest disappointment of the meal was the duck fat smashed potatoes which were neither smashed nor duck fat reminiscent. They tasted like bland baked potatoes and were grossly overshadowed by the free potatoes with pimento mayonnaise. The Standard Grill offers these complimentary at every meal so skip the sides. These potatoes are crisp and luscious when smothered with the spicy mayo.

I’ve heard people complain about the service but I felt the timing was perfect. The cool scene, soft prices, and freebies make it obvious why people are fighting for tables at The Standard Grill. The food isn’t perfect, but its patrons don’t eat much anyway.

Location: 846 Washington Street
Food: Good
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entrée Price: $10/$21
Value: Very Good.
You Gonna Finish That? Meh, you can taste the side.

Corton (It’s Complicated)

If my feelings about Corton were a Facebook relationship status, they’d be the tenuous: “it’s complicated.” There were some moments when I felt in love then others when I felt we were better as friends. Generally, I just couldn’t commit.

I don’t put much emphasis on decor but if I did, Corton wouldn’t fare well. As you can see in the photo above, the room is basically in drab shades of grey which let the food stand out but don’t do much for one’s spirit.

Corton has been receiving tremendous accolades since it opened last year, including two Michelin stars amongst the ranks of Picholine and Momofuku Ko. The food is sort of a heady take on French cuisine. The menu is deceptively simple but then each dish arrives deconstructed into three or four precious components. Most arrive with a long explanation and great pomp and circumstance. For some dishes the playfulness worked and for others I was left scratching my head.

We started off well with a luscious amuse-bouche of foie gras with port chantilly and cauliflower creme.  It was like a foie gras custard and as I stirred the cauliflower through the foie gras it sliced the richness. A seemingly basic square of cod got a tableside drizzle of bright green sauce and a copper pot of just-soft, creamy pumpkin and Jerusalem artichoke risotto. This dish alone was lovely but then came a tiny plate with a little ball of crisp cod served atop a smear of tartar sauce (their version of fish and chips). Then another plate of some forgettable foam and greens completed the single entree. I wondered why all the extra side components, they didn’t seem to add much except confusion and extra thought. Too much fuss and not enough substance.

Headiness is sometimes good, like in a tete de cochon and serrano gelee served with a single farm egg. My sister described it as one of the most inspiring appetizers she’d ever had. The duck with turnip gelee was profoundly juicy, served in three little slices with a nice char on the outside of each.  I loved the playfulness in a lamb three ways including lamb sausage, lamb belly and lamb loin. Though served in the same separate plates and pots, the three components were cohesive and each added a layer of flavor to the dish. Even the butter had a creative spin with a kiss of seaweed, adding a green hue and a delightful saltiness. As befuddled as I was at times, most of the flavors really sang.

A hamachi appetizer with avocado and cucumber was the only dish to arrive complete on one plate, but the rolled fish with little balls of avocado was sorrowfully bland compared to others like “the sea” which my Dad had, a smoragasboard of underwater creatures like madai with yuzu and lobster with Burgundy truffle. (As I’m writing this post I’m practically ducking my family members who will most certainly be throwing rocks at me upon reading this. They loved every minute of it.)

My Dad brought 2 old Bordeaux: a 1988 Chateau Petrus and Ducru-Beaucaillou which drank beautifully. The Petrus had an incredible smoky character which paired well with the lamb and duck that others had. The service was near impeccable with the exception of  a long pause after our entree when nobody cleared. We sat with dirty plates for a good 10 minutes while busboy after waitress plus the sommelier walked idly by our table.  It was a puzzling moment. At a restaurant with the elegance of Corton, staff should always be willing to step in and help. Whether you are the sommelier or the busboy, if you have a free moment and a waitress is occupied, it’s not above you. Finally the sweet manager passed by and she happily cleared for us.

After all of the joy and confusion, we closed the meal with a delicious cheese plate of an American cheddar, comte, ashed goat and Roquefort with cherry preserves on the side. Apparently our waitress heard us conversing throughout the meal and took it upon herself to bring a complimentary bowl of sorbet with a candle for my Mom’s Birthday. It was such a sweet gesture! By the end of the meal I had warmed to Corton once again.

Location: 239 West Broadway
Food: Good
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entrée Price: $85 for 3-course Prixe-Fixe
Value: Good
You Gonna Finish That? Meh, you can taste the side.

Hangawi (Spice and Serenity)

Though on the edge of K-town, you won’t find communal BBQs at Hangawi, a Zen temple of vegetarian Korean fare. When E suggested we try a Korean vegetarian place he had been to for lunch, I did not expect this level of elegance. After some jerky driver behind me honked incessantly at my cab, I stepped out, walked into Hangawi and felt immediately calm.

Not only is Hangawi beautiful with its soaring ceilings and ornate table settings, but the staff glides around the room with such ease, that your stress lifts away. And boy, does it smell awesome!

A lot of that peace comes from the fact that everybody removes their shoes at the door. You won’t hear any clicking at Hangawi. It was a real joy to take off my heels and tuck my feet into the space below our table. I was amazed at how far the menu could go without any meat. From dumplings to leek pancakes, seaweed salad, vermicelli, and an entire maitake mushroom prixe fixe, the menu piqued my taste buds again and again. Narrowing down our selections was no small feat.

We started with the seamed kimchi buns, two pillows of dough with sweetly-flavored slices of kimchi inside.  The texture was just dense enough with the right amount of elasticity. I’m no bun expert but I know what a David Chang bun tastes like and what an over-processed Zen Palate bun tastes like. These were somewhere in the middle. Even better than the buns were our vegetable dumplings with a pool of spicy/sour sauce (chilli sauce? not listed) Don’t let the vague descriptions  fool you, the kitchen pays great care to detail and the flavors are there.

I appreciated the serene vibe until a LONG pause between our appetizer and entree. People began to leave the restaurant as we crept closer to closing time, with no entree. Our waiter was missing. Eventually we caught the attention of our hostess and magically, our waiter emerged with our Zen noodles and spicy chili mushrooms, served with generous side plates of spicy and mild kimchi.

The hostess felt terrible about the wait and apologized profusely. She asked if there was anything else they could bring. E mentioned a particular type of kimchi he had on another occasion. While they didn’t have it, they brought another side of some marinated, thinly sliced cucumber. The cucumber wasn’t life-changing, but a good effort at salvaging our meal.

Timing mishaps and mistakes occur all the time in restaurants, but it’s possible to recover with grace, as the staff at Hangawi did. This was a truly memorable meal and I would be happy to return anytime!

Location: 12 East 32nd Street
Food: Very Good
Drinks: No expansive wine list here but you will find some sake and sochu cocktails and a couple of beers.
Service: Good
Average App/Entree Price: $11/$21
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Quick Bites: Oceana (Revamped)

The Basics: After staying afloat on East 54th street for nearly two decades, Oceana has swum South to a bigger space with the same fresh seafood and star service plus a modernized menu. Some of the new territory appears unfamiliar though. With ceviche, carpaccio and tartare on nearly every menu in Manhattan, there is no need to pay $19 for an appetizer trio of tuna, hamachi and wild salmon, unless it’s mind-blowing. Unfortunately their one-dimensional version wasn’t. Fresh? Yes. Inspiring? No. But prepared entrees remind you why an historic restaurant like Oceana can still survive, and earn a Michelin star for 2009. Meaty Branzino for two stuffed and rolled with spinach, juicy mushrooms and plump olives was simply bursting with flavors and the presentation of the coiled fish was stunning (though it looks a little scary in my phone-camera photo).

Food: Very Good
Drinks: An expansive, fairly priced wine list and a hefty beer selection too. Despite the Livanos family’s background there was nary a Greek wine on the list. They plan to add some soon.
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entree Price: $17/$36
Value: Good
Location: 1221 6th Ave and 49th
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Apiary (Serious Food Where You Don’t Expect It)

On an unlikely block of 3rd avenue, unfortunately close to underaged watering hole Bar None , sits Apiary.
I’ve had Apiary on my wish list for months without a clue of how it got there. Few people were familiar with it when I suggested it on other occasions. Despite its name (means bee yard), I hadn’t seen much buzz from the big critics.  That’s because most of the big pubs visited it before Chef Scott Bryan took over, so it was snubbed  “They can’t get by on looks alone” said Time Out, of the sleek space and lackluster food. But things have changed with the new chef and luckily Apiary has grown organically, through rave reviews from bloggers.

We had the assistance of Apiary’s affable Sommelier Brett Feore, who suggested the tasting menu for us, pairing wines with each course. We began with a fresh hamachi crudo with avocado, hearts of palm and flecks of spice from jalapeno. Feore paired it with a Riesling for us, a winning match. Next we had the Chatham cod with a crisp outside and luscious center, accented by some white beans on a bed of zucchini and tomato.  The flavors brought an often-dull fish to new heights. I’ve never had cod like that before. Surprisingly, Feore paired it with a Brunello, alluding to the unconventional match, but stating that the meaty beans could support such a rich wine. Though I’m always supportive of exploring new pairings, I did find the wine overpowering. Following the cod, I loved dragging the tender peking duck breast through the parsnip puree accented with caramelized endive and tokyo turnips in our final savory course. Feore paired it with a Rioja, though I sensed the new wine was more because I was drinking faster than the others, than out of necessity ;) Somehow we squeezed a 3-cheese course with three artisanal honeys (in keeping with the bee theme) and a dessert sampling  (the vanilla panna cotta was a favorite). Honestly, each dish was a tremendous success and I would struggle to find a low point in the food.

There were a few minor glips in service. When you go through 3-4 different wines in a meal, each with its own glass, the table gets cluttered quickly. We had to ask for leftover glasses to be removed, something that should have been done without request. There were a couple of longish drags between courses, that could be tightened up as well as more frequent water refills. Generally it was quite good however.

For the price of what some mundane East Village restaurants charge, at Apiary you’ll get refined food and service in a sleek space. More critics could give it a second review, but by the looks of the packed room on my visit, they may not need it!

Location: 60 3rd Avenue, between 10th and 11th
Food: Excellent
Wine: A varied and reasonable list with prices that start at $29. New York wines are represented as well, which I always like to see.
Service: Good
Average App/Entree Price: $12/$23
Value: Very Good
Word to the Wise: Apiary offers a $35 3-Course Prixe Fixe Menu Sunday-Thursday. Monday is “no corkage” night.
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

Il Buco (Almost There!)

Walking into Il Bulco, you fall in love instantly. There is something about the warm, artisanal, feel of copper pots hung from the ceiling, ingredients-as-decoration, and the wooden communal table and you’re wooed. Maybe it’s the kooky chandeliers which have a story all their own. Maybe it’s just the handsome waiters. Il Buco was once an antique shop until its owners decided to turn their homemade midday meals into a full-on operation. The restaurant is still laden with relics from the past, creating its cutesy charm. They even preserve a bit of history by listing the olive oils, grains and produce they use in the food on the menu– it’s available for purchase.

Cute as it may be, the Il Buco operation is ambitious. The regular menu changes daily, though Il Buco’s strength is a list of tried and true, seasonal appetizers. The star of the list was a luscious beef carpaccio with crunchy, fried chickpeas, though a chicken liver crostini didn’t fall far behind. Not everything shines though, as fried zucchini blossoms filled with ricotta and anchovies were uneven, with a bland oozy center and a salty tip.

It’s likely that Il Buco’s popularity isn’t in the pasta. Torn pasta with chanterelle mushrooms and lasagne with pork ragout had frail flavors. A hint of salt, a crunch of green, a splash of sauce or a sprinkling of parmesan would have done wonders for these lovely noodles, but none of that was offered. These dishes weren’t bad, but SO CLOSE to being wonderful, it was a tragedy. It made me wonder why celebrity chefs Alain Ducasse and Eric Ripert, are regulars.

It was finally evident in our last course: a juicy swordfish steak with cool yogurt, mint and cucumber and a zesty tomato farro salad on the side. Had we stuck to appetizers and seafood, the meal would have been consistently excellent.

It’s not easy to create a new menu every day. Perhaps what Il Buco lacks is the luxury of practice. They would do better to tame the ambition and change the menu to weekly, giving them time to perfect each dish. Luckily, our Terre del Barolo 2004 consistently delivered for the whole meal.

Il Buco: 47 Bond Street
Food: Good
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entree Price: $15/$26
Value: Poor
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.