The Smith

January 5th, 2008

This East Village newcomer, brought to you by the same folks who own West Village Jane, is a fresh face to the neighborhood. The menu dabbles in comfort food and eclectic offerings like a take on Korean Bibimbop alongside items like Coney Island Disco Fries and Lamb Wiener Schnitzel. After being open for a few months, the Smith was packed on a Wednesday evening. Walking into the Smith I’m reminded of Schillers Liquor Bar on Rivington with white tiled floors, walls and a wide-open space dining room dotted with bare-bones black tables and chairs. A long bar with a wide selection of beers on tap adds a hint of Brasserie flavor. This isn’t an elegant dining room but a neighborhood place where one feels comfortable returning if the food would deliver adequately.

And it does. A string bean salad accented with ricotta salata and almonds is the perfect mixture of crunchiness and rich salt. I could have eaten two bowls of this refreshing starter. Salmon with brussel sprouts, bacon, and baby portobellos is a well-executed crossroads of flavors. Lamb wiener schnitzels were a popular item around the table, accompanied by satisfaction all around.

Service was friendly with few errors despite our large, boisterous party. Drinks from an eclectic menu of wines by the glass, beers, and cocktails were always refilled and timed appropriately. Combine the great food and service with an unbeatably affordable menu and I think I’ll be making the Smith a regular jaunt in the future.

The Smith: 55 3rd Ave Between 10th and 11th
Cuisine: New American,Traditional American
Entree Price: $14-$23
Food: Very Good
Service: Very Good
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Word to the Wise: Not to be confused with recently opened Smith’s, Nevada Smith’s, or Smith and Wollensky.

Smith in New York

Spitzer’s Corner

August 27th, 2007

This highly anticipated gastro pub on the lower East side has finally opened its doors for business. Spitzer’s is definitely a social event with large picnic-like communal tables, offering up little in the way of privacy but a lot in the way of elbow rubbing with strangers. The space is completely made of well-worn wood (apparently made of old pickle barrels) but large open windows line the front, spilling onto the sidewalk and creating a nice airiness.

Spitzer’s has a whopping 39 beers on tap, not to mention plenty by the bottle. I told the waitress I wanted to try something akin to a Hoegaarden or Delerium Tremins but really wanted something new. She suggested many of her favorites, including a Unibroue Ephemere which I went for. The Unibroue Ephemere was like no beer I’ve ever tasted with intense flavors of crisp apple and vanilla though it was dry. My friend opted for a Dogfish Pale Ale. Second beer was a Smuttynose Summer Weizen and from then on I start to forget ;) Other interesting contenders simply based on names included Stone Arrogant Bastard and Old Speckled Hen.

The menu offers jazzed up bar food with selections like a pot of pickles, olives, raw bar items, pork fat popcorn (think popcorn dipped in bacon) and lots of seafood items and burgers. We started with the pork fat popcorn then shared fried zucchini blossoms with ricotta and truffle oil. Entrees around the table were: grilled cuttlefish with preserved lemon and ink sauce, steamed mussels with Italian sausage, peppers and tomatoes, and chicken breast with potato puree, braised cabbage and pilsner jus. The sausage was a nice complement to the mussels and the spicy broth married the two well. The cuttlefish was a perfect texture and sopped up the hearty ink sauce. I wasn’t into tasting the chicken but my friend enjoyed it.

Spitzer’s is unassuming, despite the buzz around its opening. The spot was rumored to be owned by ex Top Chef cast member, Sam Talbot, though that fell apart in the end. Prior to our visit I called three times with no answer until the fourth attempt when someone answered Uh, HELLO? I mean uhh Spitzer’s? Clearly there’s no pretension here. Service was spotty but it had only been open for a week when we stopped in. Besides, you don’t come to Spitzer’s Corner for an impeccable dining experience, you come for a fantastic beer selection and some mind blowing pork fat popcorn.

Spitzer’s Corner: 101 Rivington Street and Ludlow
Cuisine: Gastro Pub
Spitzer's Corner in New York