Michelin 2009: What the #$&%?

The announcement of next year’s New York Michelin star recipients was, to put it lightly, surprising. The list was briefer than last year, and I found that many restaurants were stiffed while others were given undeserved merit. For New Yorkers, Michelin ratings may have diminished in importance but the guide still remains an important yardstick for tourists. In the current state of world, when people now travel in herds for great buys in the U.S.A. , I think Michelin is all the more relevant.

Here is the lowdown:

3 Stars (excellent cuisine and worth the journey)

Jean-Georges
Le Bernardin
Masa
Per Se

2 Stars (excellent cooking and worth a detour)

Adour Alain Ducaisse
Daniel
Del Posto
Gilt
Gordon Ramsey at the London
Momofuku Ko
Picholine

1 Star (a very good restaurant in its category)

Allen & Delancey
Alto
Annisa
Anthos
Aureole
Blue Hill
Cafe Boulud
Cru
Dressler
Eighty-One
Etats-Unis
Fiamma
Fleur de Sel
Gotham Bar & Grill
Gramercy Tavern
Insieme
Jewel Bako
JoJo
Kyo-Ya
l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Oceana
Perry Street
Peter Luger
Public
Saul
Spotted Pig
Sushi of Gari
The Modern
Veritas
Wallse
WD-50

Some observations:

• It looks like Mario Batali got shafted this year. I haven’t always been a fan of his attitude toward bloggers, but Babbo is still one of my favorite meals of all time. I hope it hasn’t gone downhill.
• Only Del Posto made it this year, my least favorite of the Batali restaurants.
• Where is Bouley?  So sad to not see it anywhere on this list. What gives guys?
• Eleven Madison Park was shafted once again. I happen to agree as I never got the hype of EMP as much as others. I bet many are surprised though.
• Spotted Pig was once again awarded a star. I just don’t get this one. It’s a hip, gastro-pub with great food (love the gnudi). Michelin star worthy? I don’t think so.  If anybody can explain why Spotted Pig continually gets Michelin stars I’d appreciate the enlightenment.
• I loved my meal at Public but I don’t think it stands up to the other restaurants in this category. Same with Sushi of Gari, which gets a star year after year.
• I may be alone on this, but I’ll come out and say it: Insieme doesn’t need to be on the list either. My meal last week there was good, but far from excellent.
• 3 cheers for Annisa! Anita Lo is doing some amazing stuff, and I’m so pleased to see her earn a star again.
• Country lost its star, not surprisingly.
• I’ve never been to, or even heard of, Kyo Ya, but apparently I need to make a visit! Anybody been?

So all-in-all, I am confused. Of course my observations are based on one-time visits, so one can take my opinion with a grain of salt. I suppose every year there are disappointments and surprises, but this year seemed to be particularly odd. Am I alone on this?

Miracle Fruit Tricks the Tongue

The New York Times today, reported on a unique, West African berry that is said to actually trick the tongue into detecting sweetness in sour foods. The berry is said to temporarily alter the taste buds (for about an hour). The article reported on certain “flavor tripping parties”, like the one held in Long Island City last weekend, where partygoers challenge themselves to eat berries and then sample bitter and spicy foods including anything from tabasco sauce to brussel sprouts. “You have to trust me” says the Supreme Commander who hosts these parties, bringing the expensive ($2 each!) berries plus a buffet of assorted foods to sample. In the video in the article (no embed code provided), watch people drink vinegar out of plastic cups and one guy mix apple cider vinegar, tabasco, and mustard and remark that it’s “not delicious, but tolerable” as others glug straight tabasco next to him.

Pretty incredible! It’s the first I’d heard of these berries but then I learned about a guy named Curtis Mozie who grows the berries in Ft. Lauderdale. He says they’re actually quite useful for chemotherapy patients who suffer from a metallic taste in their mouths. If they were more affordable, I could see them being used as a great way for kids to get used to eating vegetables or for other picky eaters who need some help getting in their less tasty nutrients. Or how about for curing a sweet tooth when dieting?

Any other ideas on how this miracle fruit can be used? Have you tried it yourself?

Here’s a video on it for more information:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIo98M4tKLc[/youtube]

Food Network Bar Mitzvah and Anthony Bourdain

Food blogger Adam Roberts (Amateur Gourmet) has recently been snatched up by the Food Network to host a series of videos dubbed, The FN Dish. Each week Adam will go behind the scenes of the Food Network, “living every Food Network fans’ greatest fantasy.” I doubt I’ll become an avid viewer but I found this juxtaposition of a boy with a Food Network themed Bar Mitzvah and the ever-hating Anthony Bourdain amusing. If only they had done the interview together! Props to the Food Network for allowing Bourdain to mouth-off in their very own segment. Unfortunately I could not get it to embed without breaking my site, so here’s the link to it.

Michelin 2008 Revealed

The highly anticipated 2008 Michelin Guide to New York City was released today. As expected, there was good news for some and disappointment for others. Hearts bleed for Tom Colicchio’s Craft, which was demoted from 1 star to zero and L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon which was awarded 1 star despite earning a lofty reputation at the James Beard Awards this year. Jean Georges, Le Bernardin and Per Se were the only triple star winners. I was shocked to see Del Posto earning two stars amongst such culinary kings as Bouley, Daniel, and Masa. How can Del Posto earn 2 and Babbo earn 1? I also enjoyed Spotted Pig but don’t think it worthy of a star along side Babbo. A loud applause for Jewel Bako which earned a star and Picholine which has re-emerged after revamping its menu and decor to earn two stars. Shockingly, Eleven Madison Park was nowhere to be found. Check out the complete list here. What do you all think? Any disagreements?

I also learned about Michelin’s “Bib Gourmand” category which awards restaurants for exceptional value. Restaurants like Beyoglu (a turkish UES staple), Blue Smoke, and Momofuku made this category.

Michelin is hosting a discussion panel on Thursday evening at 7PM at Borders in the Time Warner Center. Unfortunately I cannot attend because I have to teach my spin class If anyone goes, please fill me in on what happens!

Mario Batali Hates on Food Blogs

Mario, I’m hurt. In a recent interview on Eater with Mario Batali, the famed Italian chef rants about why he dislikes food bloggers. He remarks that by hiding behind the veil of the web, food bloggers can be particularly “snarky” and vindictive without any evidence of research or credibility behind their claims. He seems to be a bit bitter about some recent gossip surrounding a Del Posto real estate issue. He has a point that blogs can get out of hand and I am sure there are some folks that post first and check facts second. However, when it comes down to it, food blogs provide restaurants with an obscene amount of free publicity. I am of the school of thought that all press is good press. He should be thanking us bloggers for even caring enough to talk about his restaurants. He recovers a bit in the end by saying that he does not hate the blogger he just “expects more from them.” Though I wrote a glowing Babbo review , I’m very disappointed that he would make such comments. In a highly competitive restaurant world, he should be delighted to have achieved the culinary throne on which he sits and eat a slice of humble pie.

What Makes People Picky Eaters?

I will be the first to admit that I have a steadfast intolerance for picky eaters. As a little kid whose favorite food was lox, I was always willing to try everything-developing some rather open minded taste buds over time. I feel bad for the folks who have to abashedly inform me that they “don’t like raw fish” or that Indian food makes them nauseous. My wrath is released with the typical: “What do you mean?? Have you ever had it?? If you tried it, I’m sure you’d like it. Oh you have?? Well then it probably wasn’t cooked right.” I just can’t help myself. I simply don’t understand picky eaters and I feel that it’s my job- right or wrong- to inform them of their obvious closed minded nature and gauche taste. But perhaps certain foods simply taste different to them than they do to me. Perhaps, there is an inherent science behind picky eating habits. I looked into this a bit and found that there are many dissenting opinions, and no one seems to be sure.

Continue reading �

2007 James Beard Awards Play by Play

Here is my feature article which is also on the magazine site here.
I promise more down and dirty details to follow, plus photos later tonight.

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The stage was set and the red carpet laid out at this week’s 20^th annual James Beard Awards. Each year, the awards recognize some of the kings of the culinary sphere with accolades such as: Rising Star Chef, Outstanding Wine Service and the Lifetime Achievement Award. The ceremony spanned two evenings, with Sunday night as the media awards and Monday night, the restaurant and chef. The event was held at Avery Fisher hall at Lincoln Center, a grand aberration from the usual venue at the Marriot Marquis.

Gastronomic celebrities such as Martha Stewart, Bobby Flay, Todd English, and Jacques Pepin put aside their chef whites for the evening to sport black tie attire in the hopes of hanging a coveted Beard medallion around their necks. Hannah Storm, co-anchor of The Early Show on CBS hosted the evening and passed the baton off to various food stars to announce the winners of each award. Here are some of the lucky winners:

Rising Star Chef: David Chang

Best New Restaurant: L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Outstanding Chef: Michel Richard

Outstanding Restaurateur: Thomas Keller

Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional: Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards

Outstanding Wine Service: Mark Slater of Michel Richard Citronelle

Following the awards, a grand reception was held through the halls with food stations by chefs from over thirty restaurants around the country. Thousands of attendees rubbed elbows with some of the best of the industry while enjoying such standout items as cotton candy foie gras by Jose Andres, peekytoe crab cappuccino with lemon verbena by Daniel Humm and seared pork belly profiteroles with spiced caramel by Roberto Trevino. Outside on the balcony there was a special cocktails area with unique concoctions such as a thyme mojito. The wine focus was rather minimal at the reception though Castello de Banfi had a table as did Robert Mondavi and Wines of Chile. For some, the main event was an invitation to a late night after party at Hawaiian Tropic, Kobe Club or Momofuku Ssam Bar.

To view the full list of nominees and winners please visit the James Beard site.

2007 James Beard Awards Anticipation

On Monday I will be attending the annual James Beard , 20th anniversary Awards at Lincoln Center. I’m pretty pumped about it as I have never been and I know that many big guns in the food industry will be attending. For those who are unfamiliar, the James Beard Foundation is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to nurturing America’s culinary excellence. James Beard is considered by some to be the Father of American gastronomy. Each year the awards honor people who have achieved greatness in the culinary field. The awards are literally the Oscars of gastronomy, complete with a red carpet and stars dressed in black tie. Somehow, I slipped through the cracks and managed to get a seat for myself and a lucky guest

Here is a rundown of the nominees and my predictions for who should win the top awards. After Monday I will provide the results and either hang my head in shame or smile proudly. We shall see! Please provide input whether you agree or disagree with my picks:

Outstanding Restaurateur
Thomas Keller (Per Se, French Laundry) , Keith McNally (Balthazar) , Richard Melman (Lettuce Entertain You), Drew Nieporent (Myriad Restaurant Group) , Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Jean-Georges, Perry Street)
My Pick: Thomas Keller

Outstanding Chef
Tom Colicchio (Craft) , Lee Hefter (Spago), Jean Joho (Everest) , Paul Kahan (Blackbird), Michel Richard (Citronelle)
My Pick: Jean Joho

Outstanding Restaurant
Boulevard, Frontera Grill, Magnolia Grill, Picholine, Spiaggia
My Pick: Picholine (only because it is the only one in NYC)

Best New Restaurant
A Voce, Cochon, Cut, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Momofuku Saam Bar, Restaurant Guy Savoy
My Pick: Momofuku Saam (very torn on this one however)

Rising Star Chef of the Year
Nate Appleman (A16), Graham Elliot Bowles (Avenue at the Peninsula Hotel), David Chang (Momofuku Noodle Bar), Patrick Connolly (Radius), Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park)
My Pick: Daniel Humm

Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
Dale DeGroff, Paul Draper, Dan Duckhorn, Terry Theise, Helen Turley, Erika Strum (OHMYGOD WHAT AN HONOR!)
My Pick: Helen Turley

Best Chef: New York City
Terrance Brennan (Picholine), Floyd Cardoz (Tabla), Wylie Dufresne (WD-50) , Gabriel Kreuther (The Modern), David Waltuck (Chanterelle)
My Pick: David Waltuck

Dining for Darfur

A bevy of restaurants in NYC are pledging to donate 5% of their gross sales from this Sunday, April 29th to the International Rescue Committee’s humanitarian relief efforts in Darfur and the refugee camps in Chad. If you’d like to be a part of dining for a cause, please check out the full list of participating restaurants here and make a reservation. If you’d like to make your reservation via OpenTable.com, these restaurants are available.

Need a recommendation? From this list in Manhattan I would highly recommend Aix Brasserie, Cookshop, A Voce, Mercadito, Sapa, Public, Red Cat, Tia Pol and Trestle on Tenth.