Quick Bites: Oceana (Revamped)

October 20th, 2009

Oceana, from Zagat

The Basics: After staying afloat on East 54th street for nearly two decades, Oceana has swum South to a bigger space with the same fresh seafood and star service plus a modernized menu. Some of the new territory appears unfamiliar though. With ceviche, carpaccio and tartare on nearly every menu in Manhattan, there is no need to pay $19 for an appetizer trio of tuna, hamachi and wild salmon, unless it’s mind-blowing. Unfortunately their one-dimensional version wasn’t. Fresh? Yes. Inspiring? No. But prepared entrees remind you why an historic restaurant like Oceana can still survive, and earn a Michelin star for 2009. Meaty Branzino for two stuffed and rolled with spinach, juicy mushrooms and plump olives was simply bursting with flavors and the presentation of the coiled fish was stunning (though it looks a little scary in my phone-camera photo).

Branzino from Oceana

Food: Very Good
Drinks: An expansive, fairly priced wine list and a hefty beer selection too. Despite the Livanos family’s background there was nary a Greek wine on the list. They plan to add some soon.
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entree Price: $17/$36
Value: Good
Location: 1221 6th Ave and 49th
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Oceana on Urbanspoon

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Filed under Midtown West, Neighborhood, Occasion/Special Feature, Pre-Theater, Quick Bites, Restaurant Reviews, Seafood | Comment (0)

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