Apiary (Serious Food Where You Don’t Expect It)

On an unlikely block of 3rd avenue, unfortunately close to underaged watering hole Bar None , sits Apiary.
I’ve had Apiary on my wish list for months without a clue of how it got there. Few people were familiar with it when I suggested it on other occasions. Despite its name (means bee yard), I hadn’t seen much buzz from the big critics.  That’s because most of the big pubs visited it before Chef Scott Bryan took over, so it was snubbed  “They can’t get by on looks alone” said Time Out, of the sleek space and lackluster food. But things have changed with the new chef and luckily Apiary has grown organically, through rave reviews from bloggers.

We had the assistance of Apiary’s affable Sommelier Brett Feore, who suggested the tasting menu for us, pairing wines with each course. We began with a fresh hamachi crudo with avocado, hearts of palm and flecks of spice from jalapeno. Feore paired it with a Riesling for us, a winning match. Next we had the Chatham cod with a crisp outside and luscious center, accented by some white beans on a bed of zucchini and tomato.  The flavors brought an often-dull fish to new heights. I’ve never had cod like that before. Surprisingly, Feore paired it with a Brunello, alluding to the unconventional match, but stating that the meaty beans could support such a rich wine. Though I’m always supportive of exploring new pairings, I did find the wine overpowering. Following the cod, I loved dragging the tender peking duck breast through the parsnip puree accented with caramelized endive and tokyo turnips in our final savory course. Feore paired it with a Rioja, though I sensed the new wine was more because I was drinking faster than the others, than out of necessity ;) Somehow we squeezed a 3-cheese course with three artisanal honeys (in keeping with the bee theme) and a dessert sampling  (the vanilla panna cotta was a favorite). Honestly, each dish was a tremendous success and I would struggle to find a low point in the food.

There were a few minor glips in service. When you go through 3-4 different wines in a meal, each with its own glass, the table gets cluttered quickly. We had to ask for leftover glasses to be removed, something that should have been done without request. There were a couple of longish drags between courses, that could be tightened up as well as more frequent water refills. Generally it was quite good however.

For the price of what some mundane East Village restaurants charge, at Apiary you’ll get refined food and service in a sleek space. More critics could give it a second review, but by the looks of the packed room on my visit, they may not need it!

Location: 60 3rd Avenue, between 10th and 11th
Food: Excellent
Wine: A varied and reasonable list with prices that start at $29. New York wines are represented as well, which I always like to see.
Service: Good
Average App/Entree Price: $12/$23
Value: Very Good
Word to the Wise: Apiary offers a $35 3-Course Prixe Fixe Menu Sunday-Thursday. Monday is “no corkage” night.
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.

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