Il Buco (Almost There!)

October 5th, 2009

Il Buco via On the Inside

Walking into Il Bulco, you fall in love instantly. There is something about the warm, artisanal, feel of copper pots hung from the ceiling, ingredients-as-decoration, and the wooden communal table and you’re wooed. Maybe it’s the kooky chandeliers which have a story all their own. Maybe it’s just the handsome waiters. Il Buco was once an antique shop until its owners decided to turn their homemade midday meals into a full-on operation. The restaurant is still laden with relics from the past, creating its cutesy charm. They even preserve a bit of history by listing the olive oils, grains and produce they use in the food on the menu– it’s available for purchase.

Cute as it may be, the Il Buco operation is ambitious. The regular menu changes daily, though Il Buco’s strength is a list of tried and true, seasonal appetizers. The star of the list was a luscious beef carpaccio with crunchy, fried chickpeas, though a chicken liver crostini didn’t fall far behind. Not everything shines though, as fried zucchini blossoms filled with ricotta and anchovies were uneven, with a bland oozy center and a salty tip.

Beef Carpaccio with Fried Chickpeas via Restaurant Girl

It’s likely that Il Buco’s popularity isn’t in the pasta. Torn pasta with chanterelle mushrooms and lasagne with pork ragout had frail flavors. A hint of salt, a crunch of green, a splash of sauce or a sprinkling of parmesan would have done wonders for these lovely noodles, but none of that was offered. These dishes weren’t bad, but SO CLOSE to being wonderful, it was a tragedy. It made me wonder why celebrity chefs Alain Ducasse and Eric Ripert, are regulars.

It was finally evident in our last course: a juicy swordfish steak with cool yogurt, mint and cucumber and a zesty tomato farro salad on the side. Had we stuck to appetizers and seafood, the meal would have been consistently excellent.

It’s not easy to create a new menu every day. Perhaps what Il Buco lacks is the luxury of practice. They would do better to tame the ambition and change the menu to weekly, giving them time to perfect each dish. Luckily, our Terre del Barolo 2004 consistently delivered for the whole meal.

Il Buco: 47 Bond Street
Food: Good
Service: Very Good
Average App/Entree Price: $15/$26
Value: Poor
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Il Buco on Urbanspoon

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Filed under Cuisine, Italian, Neighborhood, Restaurant Reviews, Soho | Comment (1)

One Response to “Il Buco (Almost There!)”

  1. The other strum. on October 7, 2009 12:42 pm

    I DID appreciate the warm bread after fasting all day.

    Oh and that everyone who works there is a model.

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