November 6th, 2008
What was surprising to me about Le Bernardin was not the sublime food or the impeccable service-I expected that-it was the real warmth of the restaurant, the lack of stuffiness. Le Bernardin is an iconic place for French cuisine in Manhattan. It has been the king of French seafood in New York since it opened here in 1986 and has only improved in stature since Eric Ripert took the throne as executive chef in 1994. It has been one of few restaurants in New York to win 3 Michelin stars for years now.
Yet the wood-paneled room with blue carpeting and oversized plants feels comfortable. And the people at Le Bernardin don’t exude any kind of arrogance. The menu offers a choice of a 4-course prixe fix or more extensive tasting menus. The selections are so exciting for a seafood lover, I really had a tough time choosing. Whether oddities like geoduck or uni are your cup of tea or “barely touched” escolar, the kitchen at Le Bernardin allows the fresh flavors of each dish’s centerpiece to express themselves, without much distraction.
Star appetizers are the layers of thinly pounded tuna with a touch of foie gras and a layer of crispy baguette, studded with chives or a smokey, warm octopus salad with lemon confit. A bountiful tray of warm breads are generously served between courses. Le Bernardin’s take on a “surf and turf” was also exceptional served with buttery, crisp kobe beef, round eggplant “fries”, and seared white tuna. Even the amuse-bouche, which for me is rarely of note, was a tiny bowl of rich, seafood soup with chunks of lobster. One miss though, was the bland calamari stuffed with sweet prawns and wood ear mushroom, in a calamari consomme. I sampled enough of my Dad’s crab-stuffed zucchini flowers though, to make up for it.
I’m not typically dazzled by desserts but they did some neat things here mixing sweet and savory like a “chocolate sweet potato” and a dish with bacon ice cream. My heart is always with cheese and their gooey assortment of types I don’t remember (except roquefort) was a killer finish.
Service was timely without too much pomp and circumstance. I had expected a well-orchestrated display of synchronized steel-lid-lifting, but as mentioned before, Le Bernardin was more relaxed than I’d expected. Le Bernardin was definitely one of my top dining experiences, and I highly recommend it for your next special occasion.
Le Bernardin: 155 W 51st Street near 7th ave
Cuisine: French, Seafood
Average Entree Price: 4-course prixe fix is $109
Food: Very Good
Service: Very Good
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Word to the Wise: Jackets Required. Also, Le Bernardin makes a point of serving exclusively eco-friendly fish.
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Filed under Cuisine, French, Midtown West, Neighborhood, Restaurant Reviews, Seafood | Comments (3)
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Hey Erika
Sounds like a great experience. And they actually have a vegetarian pasta on thier menu. $109 for a 4 course isn’t bad at all.
Actually, I would probably just go for desserts, they all sound awesome!!
John
Bacon ice cream. Decadence piled on decadence. It’s like Liberace and Paris Hilton having a baby, but in a good way.
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