October 5th, 2008

After creeping down the staircase and into the ornate basement of Bobo, I double checked with the host that I was in fact, in the right place. With no sign present at Bobo, it’s tough to tell, and my question was met with a smug “yes” by the host. I had hoped we could have a chuckle at the ambiguous entrance, but I was wrong. I waited for my cousins and sister at the bar, admiring the setting, and hoping the pretension would slowly disappear.
Bobo really is beautiful, as it’s an old 1800s town house, refurbished into a restaurant. Walking through the main dining room and out to the garden was like creeping through a decadent dinner party, to our own private hideaway in the back. But the service and the food turned the meal into a sour occasion.
An appetizer of sweetbreads and a quail with spicy almond sauce were hits, but a pathetic $17 tuna crudo appetizer was frankly, a joke. The dish consisted of 3 paper-thin slices of tuna with some cilantro tossed on top. I’m happy to pay for food that’s worthy of its price tag, but this was an insultingly small dish that was devoid of flavors. Wild striped bass with basil puree and chorizo had a tough consistency and lacked seasoning.
Aside from the misses on the food, our waiter was absent for most of the meal, forcing us to pour our own wine and explain to the bus boys where to deliver each plate. The attitude and prices at Bobo warrant far better.
The Brunmeister himself had a perfect analogy, comparing BoBo to an attractive cheerleader. You wanna hate’er because there’s not much substance, but she’s so pretty to look at!
I don’t relish paying for tap water without warning, either. I get that they have an Italian filtration system and it’s not purely tap, but a warning and an option would have been appreciated. I’m all for charity, but why not donate proceeds from my cousins’ $17 bird food tuna appetizer?
Such is the plight of BoBo. And after a year in business and a few chefs, it’s clear I’m not alone in my opinion. Perhaps if they cut out some of the pretension, starting with placing a sign on the door and offering free tap water, their situation would improve. Save your money on this one.
Addendum: Just 2 days after I posted this review, I got word that Bobo has yet a third chef who promises to bring larger portions and less fussy, more fun food. If anybody pays a visit, please share your thoughts!
Bobo: 181 W 10th Street and 7th Ave
Cuisine: French
Average Entree Price: $22-$34

Filed under French, Restaurant Reviews |
Welcome back Strumerika.com!
And I agree with the cheerleader analogy, place looks great!