Ilili

After spending 14 days in Israel, eating more hummus, shawarma and baba ghannouj than humanly possible, the prospect of Lebanese food was less than thrilling. I’d heard mixed things about Ilili, the upscale Lebanese restaurant recently opened in Gramercy. But their lamb dumplings with minted yogurt and fried sweetbreads (served at Toast of the Town, New York) intrigued me.

Ilili is a palatial, narrow restaurant with soaring ceilings and a masculine color palate of mahogany, spotted by comfy red chairs at each table. The expansive menu is split into vegetables, fish, meat, and “grill.” Dishes are best enjoyed as shared items, explained our gracious waiter, who was so doting that he needlessly apologized each time he left the table.

The meal began with an amuse bouche from the kitchen of silky labne (strained yogurt with olive oil, mint and za’atar) with crisps. We ordered an assortment from each section of the menu, steering clear of the traditional and opting for stars like brussel sprouts fried with grapes, fig puree and walnuts as well as manti which is Lebanese pasta stuffed with beef, lamb and yogurt. Lamb chops with z’atar salsa verde were spicy and sweet, falling off the bone in their own juices. A mixed grill of chicken shish, beef kebab and beef kafta was tender and delicately seasoned, served along side inflated, warm pitas. If seeking more adventurous dishes, skip the thinly sliced octopus with hot pepper oil and go for the sweetly spiced kibbeh naya or steak tartar with burghul, onion and mint.

We brought a special wine as my Dad typically does (1990 Chateau Lafite, waa-waa-wee-wa) but later discovered that the owners have a relationship with the family that owns Paumonok Vineyards in Long Island, which explains the bevy of Long Island wines offered up at Ilili.

The meal was a real success and I can honestly say that I adored it. Each dish had a robust flavor profile unlike anything I’ve had before in Mediterranean food. There is a host of Mediterranean restaurants in Manhattan (Periyali, Ethos, Pera, Barbounia, and Thalassa come to mind) and they do a nice job, but I found that Ilili truly stood on its own.

Ilili: 236 5th Ave (betw 27th and 28th)
Cuisine: Contemporary Lebanese
Average Entree Price: $18-$34
Food: Excellent
Service: Very Good
Value: Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.