Freemans

September 2nd, 2008

Freemans: that fashionable, taxidermied nook at the end of an alley on the Lower East side was a hit and a miss for me on Friday evening.

I loved the atmosphere which felt like an escape to a hidden hunting lodge where lots of friendly, attractive people were hiding. There are multiple rooms, all adorned with heads of wildlife like deer, geese, and wild boar. The rickety, wooden tables and chairs are at home in this understated living room.

The cozy food at Freemans was a fair match to the environment. The hot artichoke dip came highly recommended and lived up to its promises with fresh chunks of artichoke and gooey cheese that we spread on crisp toasts. It was easily the best artichoke dip I’ve had, ever. A three-cheese macaroni was heavenly, with a nice crisp bread crumb on top. A traditional spinach salad with boiled egg, bacon, pine nuts and mustard vinaigrette was a refreshing, slight break from the richness along side sea bass with a crisp, charred skin accompanied by lobster meat and bacon. A few of us shared these dishes and simply adored each bite though friends of mine who ordered the grilled trout with thyme and garlic were disappointed. It arrived as a whole fish, bones and head intact. This wouldn’t have bothered me but I understand it warranted a more thorough description. We sipped some specialty cocktails like The Freemans with rye, pomegranate molasses and orange bitters which were artfully constructed though others tasted like well, bug juice.

Despite some coups in the food department, I’m big on service, and that’s something that Freemans sorely lacked. We waited an entire course for our fittingly hip waiter to bring our first round of drinks, ordered as soon as we’d arrived. He then brought food in a strangely confusing order. It seemed as if he’d forgotten to put things into the kitchen. The spinach salad I enjoyed actually arrived after our sea bass and prior to our macaroni. Huh? I’ve heard from friends that they’ve received better service than Friday nights so I have to keep that in mind before dismissing it fully. Yes we were a large party of 9 and people were packed into the restaurant like sardines, but I know the staff at Freemans has been overwhelmed since its popular inception in 2004. They should be comfortable with it.

I would still generally recommend Freemans as a great place for a boisterous, hearty meal with friends. The dishes were well-executed, especially given their modest price tags. I just hope you’e luckier than I on the service.

Freemans: End of Freeman Alley- Off Rivington (betw. Bowery and Chrystie)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entree Price: $13-$26
Food: Very Good
Service: Poor
Value: Very Good
You Gonna Finish That? Every last bite.
Freemans on Urbanspoon

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