Commerce

It’s a good thing the food at Commerce is phenomenal because with service like last Friday’s, they could be out of business by now. Sure, a new restaurant can have a grace period of finessing timing issues and training staff, but after being open for two months, they should know better. Gael Greene illustrated it perfectly in her review, where she said, “If splendid food comes first, we’ll write off the painful din at Commerce and tonight’s overanxious Mary Popinjay server…” Gael’s experience mirrored mine perfectly, and I was disappointed to feel that way after being wooed by the charming, tiny nook that is Commerce street and the relaxed yet elegant feel of the restaurant.

After being seated forty minutes after our reservation, we were miffed, but tried to stay positive despite being seated in a sea of diners. Could they have possibly crammed any more tables in here? The hostess apologized for the wait and our waiter was friendly when he approached us and asked if we wanted to order drinks—then asked if we had just sat down— asked if we might want menus—and finally brought them. Huh? Within the next five minutes, three different people tried to take our drink order on five separate occasions. After the third time I pleaded for them to let us be, we’d let them know when we were ready. But alas, yet more people approached our table to ask. I leaned over to my cousin and asked, “Are we on an episode of Boiling Points?” (a show in which people’s tempers are tested in aggravating situations) But no, this was real! I took the quickest glance possible at the wine list and ordered a Hogue Riesling 2004, from Alsace, to prevent any further badgering. Our wine arrived and their heavenly bread plate arrived complete with six different types of perfectly crisp, warm bread including their signature “pretzel bread.” We exhaled, pleased that things might start to turn up.

The praise I’d heard of Commerce shined in the food. An asparagus fricassee with mushrooms and a poached egg was rich in flavor, in a delicately perfumed broth. A sweet potato tortelloni had an amiable sweetness, dotted with a generous sprinkling of hazelnuts. My entrée of sweet lobster meat with soft vegetables and gnocchi had me sopping up the sauce with bread. We rounded out the meal with an unfortunately tart rice pudding plus an exotic cheese plate with gooey, pungent delights. Yes, the portions were small (as many have said), but that bread basket fills you up.

I was feeling pleased again until the waiter snatched the bill from us moments after paying and I was reminded where I was dining. Despite impeccable food, Commerce’s rushed service left a sour taste in my mouth.

Commerce: 50 Commerce Street (Betw Bedford and Barrow)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entrée Price: $23-$34

Filed under New American |