April 2nd, 2008
Welcome to Wine Blogging Wednesday #44, hosted by Gary Varynerchuk of WineLibraryTV. Gary selected a wine theme which proved to be more difficult than I had imagined: French Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is often used as part of the blend in Bordeaux or as a single varietal in new world spots like California and Long Island. It can express itself strangely with green peppery, vegetal notes. It’s the preferred grape variety of few.
The place to search for Cabernet Franc flying solo in France is the Loire Valley. Though the Loire is most commonly thought of as a place for Chenin Blanc and Muscadet, regions like Saumur, Chinon, and Bourgeuil are known for producing elegant Cabernet Franc. The trouble is, these areas are lesser known to the average American consumer, and more difficult to find. Cabernet Franc is also called “Breton” in this region, making it all the more difficult for folks to find it.
After a bit of a hunt, I stumbled upon Moore Brothers Wine Company, near Union Square and was able to find two Chinon. It’s a lovely store where the temperatures is kept at 56F (chilly for people, ideal for wine) and the focus is on wines from France, Italy, and Germany. I learned Moore Brothers is also a favorite of Lenn Thompson!
The wines are both Jacky et Fabrice Gasnier Chinon 2005 but one is their Cuvee Vieilles Vignes (old vines cuvee) and the other is simply La Cuvee “Fabrice.” The Vieilles Vignes was $17 while the Fabrice was $24. Both clock in at just 12% alcohol, incredibly low for any red wine, especially in these times of hot California Cabs. Welcome back to the old world!
Though only one of these wines is deemed “old vines”, they both are from 50-year-old Cabernet Franc vines. Jacky et Fabrice Gasnier vineyards are entirely biodynamic. The wines underwent primary fermentation in stainless steel with some aging in oak barriques. The Fabrice is composed of 90% CF and 10% CS while the Vielles Vignes is 100% CF. Enough already, right? On to the tasting…
These are both well made, enjoyable Cab Francs with similar notes of cherry, hints of oak, and earthiness. The Fabrice has some white pepper notes in addition and I’m getting some baking spices in the Vieilles Vignes. The Fabrice is exploding with these aromas and flavors while the Vieilles Vignes is more subdued. They both are light-medium bodied. Overall, the Fabrice is more tightly woven with a balanced, pleasing finish. The Vieilles Vignes finishes a bit weak with a watery aftertaste. I did not get any vegetables in these wines, instead I found elegant ripe fruit and some nice spicy aromas.
Because these wines are low in alcohol and have more slim bodies, they’d be excellent paired with tuna steaks or veal. Unfortunately I plan on having sushi tonight, which may turn out to be a tragic pairing. Though I’m not completely in Alder’s “food and wine pairing is just a big scam” camp, I think that people need to stress a bit less about it. Maybe sushi and Cabernet Franc isn’t the end of the world? I’ll let you know how it goes.
I encourage you all to try a Chinon the next time you encounter one, you may be pleasantly surprised.
Related Posts:
My First Finger Lakes Trip (Everything But the Riesling)Wine Blogging Wednesday #49: Toast the End of BushSteak Frites: Simply Delicious
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Mryyess this is almost as ridiculous as the 100% Mouvedre I saw the other day!
I say Erika what kind of world are we living in.
Hello, and thank you for the mention!