South Gate

Kerry Heffernan’s fresh new restaurant was glistening on a Saturday night, just three days after officially opening in the Essex House. It wasn’t just the dramatic sharply-cut mirrored wall, the custom built vintage-viewesque wine cellar, or the glass encased liquor cabinet that nearly stole the spotlight. There was excitement in the air, manifesting itself in our cheery waitress and blooming sommelier, both eager to answer and assist. With ingredients like “lovage” on the menu, we had a few questions. Prices are kept modest here, considering the ritzy Essex House neighborhood with iconic Alain-Ducasse just next door.

The meal opened with an amuse-bouche of airy cheese puffs and foie gras toasts—the puffs seemed far too reminiscent of Park Avenue Autumn’s amuse, but delicious nonetheless. For starters we shared the wild mushroom martini with spinach fondue, poached egg and crisp pancetta as well as hamachi with eucalyptus oil for Dad and buttercup flan with brussel sprouts, black trumpet mushrooms, and prosciutto for myself. The hamachi was uninspiring, once again reminding me of something seen at countless other restaurants (Park Avenue Cafe or even BLT Fish). The martini was earthy and rich though sloppily executed. I had expected fresh wild mushrooms, rather than a mushroom soupy-esque execution. The flan saved the day. The buttercup flan makes my list for one of the most unique appetizers I have ever had. The playful mingling of textures between the creamy flan, crisp sprouts and the sprinkle of breadcrumbs was sublime. Our waitress had urged me to try this savory flan, and I was so glad I did.

Entrees were loin of lamb with rutabaga and brussel sprouts for Dad and the red snapper with celery fondue and lovage (a type of green similar to angelica or celery) for myself. Though I appreciated the wildly generous multiple fillets I was given, the fish needed something else. A celery sauce atop red snapper does not make for an exquisite dish. A good dish, sure. But nothing I’ll need to run back for. My Dad felt the same about his lamb: good, not great. If South Gate can learn to kick the rest of its dishes up a smidge, to the level of the flan, the service, or the decor they’ve got something compelling here.

Is it fair to review a restaurant that has only been open for three days? Probably not, so please take my comments with a grain of salt. We were also told that South Gate is soon to roll out its tasting menu and nightly specials in upcoming weeks.

South Gate: 154 Central Park South (between 6th and 7th)
Cuisine: New American
Average Entree Price: $30-35

Filed under New American, Restaurant Reviews |