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This newby Italian wine bar in Hell’s Kitchen had both hits and misses with OK food and struggling service. I wanted to love Bocca di Bacco with its vast menu of wines by the glass and a long elegant bar at the front with an impressive Enomatic system. At Bocca di Bacco one can order a $28 glass of Brunello or a $7 glass of Tocai Friulano, the country’s many wine regions are well-represented. On our first visit we sat at the bar, sampled some decadent cheeses (the names of which I forget) and a couple of glasses. We left very pleased and eager to return for a complete dinner.
Bocca di Bacco began to miss the mark on our second visit. Our waitress was inconsistent, disappearing for long periods of time, and returning confused, unaware of what course we were on or what we might need. A gooey wild mushroom “funghi” bruschetta with melted cheese on top and (I think?) truffle oil was rich and earthy though a scallop entrée that we shared as an app tasted far too much like the sea to be fresh. Pastas like gnocchi in osso bucco sauce and a Bolognese were passable though textures were often over cooked and under seasoned.
Bocca di Bacco is owned by the same proprietors as Roberto Passon, a wildly successful neighborhood joint nearby. Unfortunately it seems like a lot of the talent was lost in the transfer. If you want a nice glass of vino and a cheese plate, go to Bocca di Bacco, but eat dinner elsewhere.
Bocca di Bacco: 828 Ninth Avenue @54th Street
Cuisine: Italian
Entrée Price: $15-$20
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I’m pretty sure one of those cheeses we had the first time was called “butter,” but nobody told us and it wasn’t on the menu.
I think the real accomplishment was me ordering a pasta with gorgonzola cheese and liking it!
And me eating nearly all of the rest of yours + mine!