Toloache

It is often said that Manhattan is starving for decent Mexican restaurants. We’ve got plenty of mediocre, Tex-Mex style establishments but the West coast cities have us beat in terms of authentic Mexican cuisine. So, is Hell’s Kitchen newcomer Toloache the answer to your Mexican-craving dreams and desires? Probably not, but it’s a fresh face and the food sure is tasty.

Toloache offers an extensive list of tacos including everything from marinated pork with pineapple to braised beef tongue. They even offer a specialty of “oaxacan-style grasshoppers.” Yes, they’re real grasshoppers. In addition they have ceviches and inspired entrees like whole grilled branzino with jicama-red cabbage as well as a “pollo Toloache” with chipotle marinated chicken breast, corn and pico de gallo. The menu dances between safe offerings and unique twists like a dried fig salsa and avocado French fries. Toloache is an inviting two-story restaurant with bright yellow colored walls and decorative lamps hanging from the high ceilings.

Service was frighteningly over-eager. I’m not sure if our waitress was rushing so she could get to an audition or if she just lacked timing finesse. There were plenty of empty tables in the restaurant yet we were constantly checked on, pushed to order and plates were removed prematurely by the bus boys. At one point my friend was going in for another dip of guacamole only to find the cup had been removed from beneath his hand. Entrees arrived while we were still eating our appetizer and the bill was provided to us without our request. Another round of drinks wasn’t plausible.

Aside from the service issues we did enjoy our food. We started with a guacamole trio which came with a fruit guacamole made with pomegranate, mango, quince, habanero and basil as well as a spicy guacamole with tomato, red onion, chipotle and queso fresco as well as a traditional guac with serranos. I had roasted garlic shrimp served on a crispy tortilla with black beans and spaghetti squash. The crisp tortilla seemed out of place as it was soaked in sauce (making it not so crisp) but the shrimp had a delightfully sweet flavor and was a great match for the soft spaghetti squash. My friends ordered chicken enchiladas which came with dried fig salsa, green apple salad, and “Mexican cheeses” and the other had mole poblano (chicken) with Jerusalem artichoke and plantain gratin. Both enjoyed their dishes. Unfortunately the grass hoppers weren’t in the cards for us that night. I’ll have to return with someone brave enough to try them with me

Like I said, Toloache isn’t revolutionizing Mexican cuisine in Manhattan but if you’re pre- theater or in a rush for any other reason, it’s good to have on your list.

Toloache: 251 W 50^th Between Broadway and 8^th
Cuisine: Mexican
Word to the Wise: Order a margarita and avoid the watered down sangria. They have hundreds of tequilas to choose from, even Mezcal.

Filed under Mexican, Restaurant Reviews |