October 17th, 2007
I have mentioned a few under-the-radar winners in alphabet city in the past (Le Miu, Esperanto). These restaurants have had limited publicity despite their high quality food and affordable prices. Nolia can now be added to that list. Nolia calls its cusine “French Asian fusion”, offering dishes such as truffle risotto along side tuna tataki; goat cheese salad along side coconut chicken soup. I read the menu with slight trepidation- can they make this work? Somehow, they make it work rather well.
A filet mignon spring roll starter was filled with layers of filet and julienned daikon and carrots with a red wine miso dipping sauce. A robust shrimp and corn cake was accompanied by a fiery roasted red pepper sauce. Our “Sunrise” roll filled with assorted fish, crab, spicy tempura, avocado and red tobiko was elegantly constructed and fresh. Entrees at Nolia consist of both listed options such as grilled mahi mahi with hearts of palm and tropical salsa and the opportunity to choose a protein “simply grilled or roasted” with a custom sauce and side dish. I chose the second route and opted for a wild king salmon with champagne-wasabi cream and truffle risotto while a friend enjoyed free range chicken with Napa cabbage, shiitake mushrooms and a pineapple sweet and sour sauce. Unfortunately the sauce on the salmon was a bit of a miss. The champagne-wasabi cream tasted like neither, though it was still a fair match for the fish. The presence of truffles however, was evident in the rich and creamy risotto.
Service at Nolia was cordial but spotty. Drink orders required reminders and bus boys were over-eager to clear then absent when needed. I hope they remedy these errors as I think that Nolia has tremendous potential.
Nolia: 158 Avenue C and 10th Street
Cuisine: French- Asian Fusion
Word to the wise: Nolia offers a pre-fixed 3 course meal for $25 from Sunday- Thursday as well as drink specials on various nights. Make friends with the bartender and he just might offer you a free shot.

Filed under French, Japanese, Restaurant Reviews |